Single breasted trench – M5525

This pattern has all the bells and whistles for a trench coat, but I really wanted a single breasted version. I’m making View E and it will have lots of detailing, even though I’m probably a touch too short to carry it off.

So I folded out the excess from the centre front on the centre front piece and the collar. 

I’ve also used this purple fabric because it’s a fabulous colour and I’ve used red trim, so that means red top stitching – is that too much? Most of the trench will remain purple. I’ll leave the leftover cream snakeskin trim for another time. Mmmm.

DH gave me the obligatory nod to use red lining. I think he’s getting used to the decision making side of sewing. Or is he just being polite. Maybe both 🙂

What I will need is the patience for making each trench bit, so this trench might take a while to complete.


I do have a couple of knit dresses in the wings as a distraction, or to keep me motivated.
Note to self: do not rush this coat!

I did cut out a light interfacing for each piece of this coat. It’s a fairly soft fabric and I’d like to make sure this trench keeps its shape over time. Is that being pedantic?

Why is it when you’re working on a project, you see it everywhere. I’ve seen a yellow trench used here at Cardigan empire from a post about when to spend and when to splurge.

These are the trenchcoat posts:
Trenchcoat sewing
Jalie 2680: city coat trench
McCalls 5525: single breast trench
McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
McCalls 5525: pockets
McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
McCalls 5525: belt carriers
McCalls 5525: finished

11 comments

  1. This is going to be a gorgoues trench, love the colour combination. You are definately not being pedantic with the interfacing it makes a huge difference to the longevity of some fabrics.

    Agree we all need to take our time with our trenches, but have a feeling that Renata may be miles ahead of me who hasn't even traced off her pattern 🙂

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  2. So far I've used red lining and red topstitching thread. It's coming along fine so far and I'm trying to slow the pace down and make the right decisions along the way.

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  3. *Gasp* burrrrrrrn! Just kidding. Mostly. I've gifted this pattern on and am feeling an enlightened sense of detachment about the whole thing (mostly. Also some repressed rage.. XD).
    Can't wait to see your version, still too busy avoiding work to have finished tracing mine XD But I will get onto it I swear, your posts are providing the gentle encouragement I need…

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  4. Ooh- love to see how this turns out. I have been looking for a single-breasted trench and love to see how you modified M5525 for this!

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  5. No, Sharon, Renata is not miles ahead. I have interfaced the pieces, and have done the pocket and shoulder tabs. I am waiting to get the right buttons, and isn't that easy. My procrastination is also due to the fact that I think I may have used too heavy interfacing, which I thought was medium/light. So it may be more appropriate for cooler weather, but being semi-fitted, may defeat its purpose, if that makes sense. But anyway, I will soldier on. I do have my October Burda garment to work on as well.

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