Single breasted trench – M5525

This pattern has all the bells and whistles for a trench coat, but I really wanted a single breasted version. I’m making View E and it will have lots of detailing, even though I’m probably a touch too short to carry it off.

So I folded out the excess from the centre front on the centre front piece and the collar. 

I’ve also used this purple fabric because it’s a fabulous colour and I’ve used red trim, so that means red top stitching – is that too much? Most of the trench will remain purple. I’ll leave the leftover cream snakeskin trim for another time. Mmmm.

DH gave me the obligatory nod to use red lining. I think he’s getting used to the decision making side of sewing. Or is he just being polite. Maybe both 🙂

What I will need is the patience for making each trench bit, so this trench might take a while to complete.


I do have a couple of knit dresses in the wings as a distraction, or to keep me motivated.
Note to self: do not rush this coat!

I did cut out a light interfacing for each piece of this coat. It’s a fairly soft fabric and I’d like to make sure this trench keeps its shape over time. Is that being pedantic?

Why is it when you’re working on a project, you see it everywhere. I’ve seen a yellow trench used here at Cardigan empire from a post about when to spend and when to splurge.

These are the trenchcoat posts:
Trenchcoat sewing
Jalie 2680: city coat trench
McCalls 5525: single breast trench
McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
McCalls 5525: pockets
McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
McCalls 5525: belt carriers
McCalls 5525: finished

Pleather jacket

This jacket had to be completed this week because I’ll be making wedding gear for Mum.



So it all started with these gloves.

 Then I road tested this jacket in wool and snake embossed leather.

And now I have the matching pleather jacket for the gloves.

There’s a lot of topstitching because the pleather kept billowing out, which is ok if that’s the look you want.


This version has the sway back adjustment and it definitely sits much smoother on the back.
The hem and neck edges have 1 row of top stitching.

I just had to add a metal separating zipper from zipperstop.com. The lining was from my stash. Ironing pleather is not an option so I’ll need to hang this jacket on the dress form to get the crease lines out of the bodice.

The amazing thing was I didn’t mean to finish this in a week. The call to make Mum some wedding clothing came through the week. Each time I sewed up a seam I kept saying ‘just sew this seam and do a bit more tomorrow’. But my curiousity about how pleather sews up made me keep doing ‘just one more step’. It also helped that we had a raft of home made leftovers in the fridge so I didn’t have to make dinner from scratch each night. I think DH kept his approving nods consistent each I time I showed him the jacket’s construction. He deserves a beer.

Leather trim – McCalls 6292

This really is a test jacket. Truely. When I test a pattern:
– there’s no real plan
– I make my basic pattern adjustments (roll shoulder, sleeve and bodice length)
– any notions come from my stash

    Throughout the process I constantly think “What if…”

So really, I let go of any preconceived ideas and I make the garment out of sequence.
What I mean is for this jacket, I made up the lining and checked the shoulder fit before I cut out the fashion fabric. The shoulders came out too long so I cut them back on the fashion fabric and I’ve since adjusted the pattern. The neckline also climbed up my short little neck, so I dropped this by 1cm.

As you know, I’ve been trying to pick up any skills to work with leather. I had no intention of piping this jacket in snake embossed lamb leather but the scraps that I had bought from the Remnant Warehouse have been sitting in my sewing bag for 3 months saying “so what are we here for?” The cost of these leather scraps came to a whole $10.

This medium wool fabric was gifted to me by a sewing buddy so this jacket fabric hasn’t cost me much at all and I was happy to cut into it and test out this jacket. I still have plenty for a coat, skirt or pants. This fabric is well behaved.

The wonderful 3kids was the only PR reviewer of this jacket so iher review made it really clear this jacket would finish above/at my waist. Her blog had lots more detail and photos of her finished jacket. Her jacket is wonderful both on the inside and out.

This is my ‘I think I need a coffee’ look.
The ripple on my right shoulder is because the lining is a bit short – like me.
So now I’m just about ready to make up my pleather red version, once the zipper arrives from Zipperstop. I’ve used a rich red sunsilky lining to contrast the green wool on this toile.

In the meantime, I’ve cut out navy work pants that will be lined – Burda 7746. This will be my first lined pants. The first version in a purple linen have worked out well.

 If I get 2 pairs made up by the end of this month, I should be toasty warm this winter.