Jackie: Lining, collar and facings

This black acetate is a medium weight fabric and will add to the coat weight. It’s lovely and smooth.
Sewing black fabric can be a pain to see so I use a dark contrasting colour thread to help me see and unpick seams easily. I’ve used brown thread on black in the lightened pic below.

I use the pins to remind me to stop and leave a side seam gap for later. Can you see what I’ve done? The crosswise pins act as my reminder to leave a gap.

The lining sews together really quickly and is then easy to sew onto the facings.

Collar and facings
Preparing the collar and facings starts off lovely, then becomes messy, then is lovely again.

The back and front facings are sewn together. That’s looking clean enough.

Then I added a trim along the facing edge that joins the lining. This is not part of the instructions. This is my ‘take’ on making jackets.

Here’s where the mess begins.

I’ve trimmed the collar to facing and the cut away pieces always make a mess but this trimming helps these layers to sit flat. 

If you look closely, I’ve used two layers of interfacing on the collar. This keeps the collar structure without it being too stiff.
And here’s the inside view of the collar sewn onto the jacket. Messy looking but it all sits flat.

This story does have a collar and lining happy ending. It’s neat and clean.

 Here’s how the collar with lining now sits nicely. The black trim worked too.

I found some Craftsy writers that have some good information to keep in mind when you’re at this stage.

  • The beauty of understitching facings by Linda Reynolds on Craftsy.
  • Andrea Brown on Craftsy shows how to sew a double welt pockets the way Roberta taught me years ago when she used to teach at the Sydney McCalls warehouse.

    Staying in shape

    No matter what fabric you use, you can make your jacket last longer and keep its shape by interfacing it.

    I’m working on Vogue 8931 and my fabric breathes well and is the colour I want but just a bit light-weight to stand the test of time.

    Interfacing is normally used on collar, cuffs and waistbands but over time, I’ve seen how jackets can keep their shape when every piece is fully interfaced. I’ve fully fused 2 jackets made of double knit and they still hold their shape even after the fabric starts to pill.

    This cotton linen-look fabric from Minerva Crafts is soft and great for summer. It’s dress weight. Normally you wouldn’t use the same fabric for a jacket, but I have.

    Above is the ‘before’ fabric. It looks a bit wrinkled right so I’ll steam it before I interface it.

    I interface each piece separately but there’s no reason why you couldn’t interface the fabric before you cut out each piece – if you’ve planned it ahead of time.

    See how the nicely steam pressed piece looks. Smooth…

    Above is this piece is ready to steam press with a layer of interfacing. The interfacing you choose is your choice.

    Above I cover these two pieces with a moist pressing cloth.

    See the bubbles? This piece needs more pressing time.

    Above is how the inside of the jacket looks once each piece has been fused and sewn together.

    See how smooth these pieces are to work with? From here on in, these pieces stay smooth and make my sewing life a bit easier.
    I always keep a bit of whisperweft, sheerweft, armoweft and textureweft in my stash.

    This jacket will also resist creasing when I take it to work or wear it in the car.

    Don’t just look at what I’ve done, go to some real references.
    Singer Tailoring – 1988,
    Jackets for real people by Alto, Neall and Palmer – 2006,
    New Simplicity Sewing Book – 1979
    Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Palmer and Pletsch – 1977

    Single breasted trench – M5525

    This pattern has all the bells and whistles for a trench coat, but I really wanted a single breasted version. I’m making View E and it will have lots of detailing, even though I’m probably a touch too short to carry it off.

    So I folded out the excess from the centre front on the centre front piece and the collar. 

    I’ve also used this purple fabric because it’s a fabulous colour and I’ve used red trim, so that means red top stitching – is that too much? Most of the trench will remain purple. I’ll leave the leftover cream snakeskin trim for another time. Mmmm.

    DH gave me the obligatory nod to use red lining. I think he’s getting used to the decision making side of sewing. Or is he just being polite. Maybe both 🙂

    What I will need is the patience for making each trench bit, so this trench might take a while to complete.

    I do have a couple of knit dresses in the wings as a distraction, or to keep me motivated.
    Note to self: do not rush this coat!

    I did cut out a light interfacing for each piece of this coat. It’s a fairly soft fabric and I’d like to make sure this trench keeps its shape over time. Is that being pedantic?

    Why is it when you’re working on a project, you see it everywhere. I’ve seen a yellow trench used here at Cardigan empire from a post about when to spend and when to splurge.

    These are the trenchcoat posts:
    Trenchcoat sewing
    Jalie 2680: city coat trench
    McCalls 5525: single breast trench
    McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
    McCalls 5525: pockets
    McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
    McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
    McCalls 5525: belt carriers
    McCalls 5525: finished