Trench #1 – Jalie city coat:2680

This week is SIL’s b’day so even though we agreed that I’d take my time making her coat, I finished it this weekend. Why the rush? You see I started thinking about what to get her for a present. Then after a head slap moment and  I realised that I could finish the toile coat so she could test the coat.

I’ve been wanting to make up this coat for at least 2 years and so SIL has the collar version and this will be her formal coat version.

The fabric was from Tessutis – 7m for $10 – so I thought there was little risk of this toile not working. Famous last words.

Problem #1:
I should have read the instructions. This pattern is for slight stretch fabrics. Oh well, I’ve made the seam allowances 1.5cm instead of the standard 1cm seam allowance. 🙂

I was going to add a tiger print mesh lining but I wasn’t sure what my SIL style was, so I’ve used a plain coffee colour. When I phoned her after choosing the lining, she agreed that while most people love wild linings, she preferred plain lining. She might change her mind when I find a suitable wild lining option.

Problem #2
Again, I didn’t read there’s no lining to this jacket. So I’ve cut out 2 back yokes in the fashion fabric; roughly drafted a front lining piece; added 2cm to the centre back seam. This should solve this problem.

Problem #3

I didn’t take down her waist measurement. I took every other measurement including upper arm width and checked out her basic shape without commenting, but not the waist measurement. I figured, she has a defined waist and she wants to camouflage her tummy so I’ve added room in the centre front piece. But to be honest, we were too busy catching up and talking dress styles. We’re just like that when we get the chance to catch up 🙂 Here’s what I mean. I called her to check on her waist measurement and 1 hour later I got off the phone. Below is the centre front adjustment.

The three of us, that’s Sharon, Renata and I met us at ASG yesterday and I saw the two stylish Burda trench coat versions that Sharon and Renata are working on. You’ll love them. Sharon also brought a fabulous RTW trench that she’s going to use as a basis for her trench coat detailing. Her RTW trench had a hood in the collar and we’ve both got the Minoru hood collar patterns and instructions so you’ll see this in our trenches.

The other trench options that some of you are doing are going to be great to see.  No pressure. Please feel free to keep watching what we’re up to with our trench coats because if you decide to make a trench, at least you’ll feel like you’ve already made one after reading our posts. The photo set of this coat is on my flickr account.

So on this test trench, I’ve used:
– Tessutis’s sale fabric that doesn’t iron flat
– Sunsilky lining
– Buttons from
– Epaulets, belt and belt carriers are from McCalls 5525
– A buckle from Stitches in time antiques in the States that I bought at SewExpo last year.
I took a stack of photos as I was making this test trench that you can have a closer look at.

Below is a view of the lining I added.

The Jalie coat length is the same as the pattern. Since finishing this version, I’ve taken 3 inches off the top sleeve length pieces so it’s the right sleeve length but also to have the sleeve detailing is closer to the elbow.

DN wore the coat and started twirling in it. That might mean she likes it too. They share clothes some times but I knew this. DN owes me a photo or two…
I’ll have better photos with the next version because I will be using contrasting colours so that means mini construction explanations.

Now to go for a bike ride and then start on McCalls 5525. These are the trenchcoat posts:
Trenchcoat sewing
Jalie 2680: city coat trench
McCalls 5525: single breast trench
McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
McCalls 5525: pockets
McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
McCalls 5525: belt carriers
McCalls 5525: finished


  1. Wow Maria, you have done a wonderful job and thank you for all the photos. Now I need to get my act together as I haven't even traced my pattern out yet 🙂


  2. You are sooo nice to sew for your SIL and what a super bargain for the fabric. The finished trench looks fantastic – I have seen similar RTW coats in similar crinkly fabric – very trendy and expensive ! Will you make a coat for you as well ( and then wear with your SIL ??)


  3. What awesome fabric for the trench. You did a beautiful job on the muslin. Looks like the fit is pretty good too. How nice not to have too many adjustments to work out on the final version.


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