Jackie: Lining, collar and facings

This black acetate is a medium weight fabric and will add to the coat weight. It’s lovely and smooth.
Sewing black fabric can be a pain to see so I use a dark contrasting colour thread to help me see and unpick seams easily. I’ve used brown thread on black in the lightened pic below.

I use the pins to remind me to stop and leave a side seam gap for later. Can you see what I’ve done? The crosswise pins act as my reminder to leave a gap.

The lining sews together really quickly and is then easy to sew onto the facings.

Collar and facings
Preparing the collar and facings starts off lovely, then becomes messy, then is lovely again.

The back and front facings are sewn together. That’s looking clean enough.

Then I added a trim along the facing edge that joins the lining. This is not part of the instructions. This is my ‘take’ on making jackets.

Here’s where the mess begins.

I’ve trimmed the collar to facing and the cut away pieces always make a mess but this trimming helps these layers to sit flat. 

If you look closely, I’ve used two layers of interfacing on the collar. This keeps the collar structure without it being too stiff.
And here’s the inside view of the collar sewn onto the jacket. Messy looking but it all sits flat.

This story does have a collar and lining happy ending. It’s neat and clean.

 Here’s how the collar with lining now sits nicely. The black trim worked too.

I found some Craftsy writers that have some good information to keep in mind when you’re at this stage.

  • The beauty of understitching facings by Linda Reynolds on Craftsy.
  • Andrea Brown on Craftsy shows how to sew a double welt pockets the way Roberta taught me years ago when she used to teach at the Sydney McCalls warehouse.



    All the posts relating to the Jackie Coat Sewalong will be updated on this initial post.
    And don’t forget to post your pics to the Flickr Group.

    Janelle and I love Iconic Patterns and we agreed to host a Jackie Coat sewalong so anyone who has Jackie in their pattern stash, will always be able to refer to these posts. Lena has Jackie on special at the moment so you can buy your Jackie at a discount (score) as we sewalong.

    Here is the fabric and buttons or Plan A
    Blog Posts

    As each post goes a link will be added.  Got any suggestions on a topic not listed that you would like to see covered? Leave a comment on any of the sewalong posts.

    Janelle’s Jackie Coat Variation Ideas 

    Maria – Choosing size and grading between sizes
    Maria – Adjusting the pattern for proportion changes.  
    Janelle – Pattern hacks!
    Flickr Group – Making a muslin for those who would like to check the fit and any resulting pattern adjustments.
    2. Getting started

    Janelle – Cutting out pattern, fabric and lining
    Janelle – Matching interfacing to your fabric.

    Janelle – Fusing interfacing and doing any needed staystitching
    3. Detailing

    Janelle – Bound buttonholes 

    Maria – Welt pockets
    4. Basic construction

    Janelle – Sleeve shoulder darts – adjusting for narrow rounded shoulders and sleeves to jacket front/back

    Maria – Collar (under collar to jacket, upper collar to facings, etc) and facings
    5. Lining

    Maria – Bagging the lining and finishing hem

    6. Buttons and closures
    Janelle – Buttons and some tips about buttons on coats

    7. FINISHED COAT LINK PARTY and PRIZE GIVEAWAY for one fabulous sewalong participant.

    Flickr Group for Photo Sharing

    Join the Flickr Group here.

    Trench #1 – Jalie city coat:2680

    This week is SIL’s b’day so even though we agreed that I’d take my time making her coat, I finished it this weekend. Why the rush? You see I started thinking about what to get her for a present. Then after a head slap moment and  I realised that I could finish the toile coat so she could test the coat.

    I’ve been wanting to make up this coat for at least 2 years and so SIL has the collar version and this will be her formal coat version.

    The fabric was from Tessutis – 7m for $10 – so I thought there was little risk of this toile not working. Famous last words.

    Problem #1:
    I should have read the instructions. This pattern is for slight stretch fabrics. Oh well, I’ve made the seam allowances 1.5cm instead of the standard 1cm seam allowance. 🙂

    I was going to add a tiger print mesh lining but I wasn’t sure what my SIL style was, so I’ve used a plain coffee colour. When I phoned her after choosing the lining, she agreed that while most people love wild linings, she preferred plain lining. She might change her mind when I find a suitable wild lining option.

    Problem #2
    Again, I didn’t read there’s no lining to this jacket. So I’ve cut out 2 back yokes in the fashion fabric; roughly drafted a front lining piece; added 2cm to the centre back seam. This should solve this problem.

    Problem #3

    I didn’t take down her waist measurement. I took every other measurement including upper arm width and checked out her basic shape without commenting, but not the waist measurement. I figured, she has a defined waist and she wants to camouflage her tummy so I’ve added room in the centre front piece. But to be honest, we were too busy catching up and talking dress styles. We’re just like that when we get the chance to catch up 🙂 Here’s what I mean. I called her to check on her waist measurement and 1 hour later I got off the phone. Below is the centre front adjustment.

    The three of us, that’s Sharon, Renata and I met us at ASG yesterday and I saw the two stylish Burda trench coat versions that Sharon and Renata are working on. You’ll love them. Sharon also brought a fabulous RTW trench that she’s going to use as a basis for her trench coat detailing. Her RTW trench had a hood in the collar and we’ve both got the Minoru hood collar patterns and instructions so you’ll see this in our trenches.

    The other trench options that some of you are doing are going to be great to see.  No pressure. Please feel free to keep watching what we’re up to with our trench coats because if you decide to make a trench, at least you’ll feel like you’ve already made one after reading our posts. The photo set of this coat is on my flickr account.

    So on this test trench, I’ve used:
    – Tessutis’s sale fabric that doesn’t iron flat
    – Sunsilky lining
    – Buttons from lotsofbuttons.com
    – Epaulets, belt and belt carriers are from McCalls 5525
    – A buckle from Stitches in time antiques in the States that I bought at SewExpo last year.
    I took a stack of photos as I was making this test trench that you can have a closer look at.

    Below is a view of the lining I added.

    The Jalie coat length is the same as the pattern. Since finishing this version, I’ve taken 3 inches off the top sleeve length pieces so it’s the right sleeve length but also to have the sleeve detailing is closer to the elbow.

    DN wore the coat and started twirling in it. That might mean she likes it too. They share clothes some times but I knew this. DN owes me a photo or two…
    I’ll have better photos with the next version because I will be using contrasting colours so that means mini construction explanations.

    Now to go for a bike ride and then start on McCalls 5525. These are the trenchcoat posts:
    Trenchcoat sewing
    Jalie 2680: city coat trench
    McCalls 5525: single breast trench
    McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
    McCalls 5525: pockets
    McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
    McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
    McCalls 5525: belt carriers
    McCalls 5525: finished