Vogue 1378 tech notes

This is a good Winter or trans-seasonal top Vogue 1378.

This style wraps you like a cocoon and this top needs to wrap you to stop the pleats looking baggy. I made the hip gathers pleats. I like pleats because they’re flatter. 

I want to make both of these styles, but the top comes first.

I stash dived to check if this pattern’s dimensions suited someone my height and shape. Petite. The version worn by the model has really long sleeves. There’s a lot of sleeve length at her wrist. As it’s the end of Winter, I want some sleeve overflow to cover me against the cold.

Coral test version:
I chose this fabric because it’s strong enough to wear with dark colours. I now know this colour lifts my spiritsThis is pattern is fabric hungry so this fabric was a good choice.

I was a bit wary of the pleats on the hip but I bunched them where my back curves so there was no need for a sway back adjustment.

This is one of those pattern I needed to sew following the instructions to the letter. 

I couldn’t find the waistline on the pattern pieces. The waist and hip points are usually marked on patterns and I use these points to make my usual length adjustment so I had to guess the petite adjustment for length.

I removed 8 1/2″ off the hem. I checked how long my regular tee lengths are from under the sleeve to the hem and folded up the extra length. That actually worked on my shape. 
Good guess.

I removed an 1″ out of the neckline pieces because this test version gaped. 

Finding the shoulder line was easy enough to make my usual roll shoulder adjustments on the shoulder line and on the sleeve head. I folded this out 2″ at the elbow because I wanted the sleeve to hug my lower arm and wrist. This worked well too. 

Real version:
It’s part of my September Minerva make 🙂  Stay tuned…

Stripes and NL 6149

It all started with this stripe top using New Look 6149 v-neckline and a good rugby knit I bought from Tessutis last year. A walking foot, many long pins and a lot of resewing seams helped me match the lines on these tops.

The neckline is made with overlapped binding and it sits very flat.

There was a fair bit of pieces and lines to be matched. Even the two-piece sleeve needs to be matched.

Then I moved to this fabric from Tessutis and made this version again. I think I’m a bit obsessed with stripes and matching patterns at the moment.

The lines on this fabric vary quiet a bit so the fun was cutting the pieces out and sewing this up. 

Again I used lots of long pins, my walking foot to keep the lines in place and a lot of unpicking.

 And this version goes well with what I already have in my wardrobe.

This time the hem has a slight curve to it this time around and I’ve cut the back on the fold this time because I was a bit tired of matching lines by this stage. 
These tops are my ‘go-to’ weekend tops. The fabric has just enough lycra to help the fabric keep its shape. These tops were worn a lot when we traveled in June.
Now might be the time to stop sewing with stripe knit fabric. Or maybe not:)

PS: There are some heftier sewing projects happening at the moment and you’ll read about soon. Promise!

No dart block

Here’s something I picked up at pattern drafting. A no-dart block.

These patterns have no darts. The shaping is based on your outline so it isn’t form-fitting – just what I need when it’s hot and humid for days on end in our summer.
This is a bit of a breakthrough for me as I’ve always wanted a tunic top basic. These blocks are used for knit patterns as well.
The red print above has a modest v-neckline using a quilt cotton. This was my first test run. 

 This top got a good workout while we were cycling in Bright among the vineyards.

See what I mean by a modest V-neck. It’s fairly high up as are we, looking over the vines on a very slow afternoon. Proof my Presidio purse does fit in a few bottles of wine.

The v-neckline here has been lowered more than the first version above. I wore this baby visiting and it’s fun to see a 6 month old going to grab the vegetable images on your top.
It’s so cute watching them learn what’s real and what’s not real.

Below is the lowered v-neckline with curves (version 3) in a cotton voile from the stash.
I used the curve on my scissor handle to form the curves on the neckline. They’re more flat than round. The trade-off here is while there’s no shaping and the fabric is cut on the fold, the back billows and while it’s hot, I can live with that.
This comfy block is weekend worthy; doesn’t stick to you when the weather is hot and humid; and is great when you’re watching movies in the park or at Opera in the domain. All of these are keeping me mozzie proof this summer. 
When I first drafted these tops in November, I got to meet Colette from Tessutis at the first Sit ‘n sew session arranged by Sandra. Beajay, Kristy and Sharon posted up their take on this session. Thanks Colette for hosting this session.

Maggy London b5173

Spot the difference. Can you see how I’ve changed this dress? 

This version has no sleeves. The reason being is the armhole was way too high. I’ve lowered the armhole by 3cm. By the time I did this, the sleeve didn’t fit and I’ve finally run out of this static-rich fabric. I took Wendy’s advice and sprayed the fabric with anti stat but it just kept sticking to itself. I cut the dress out on the carpet because it stuck to the carpet really well. The other issue is that it was just too humid to do anything else.
The front tab has been shortened. When I initially constructed the front, it was so far down my front that it was pointing to my tummy. Not a flattering look. I moved the gathers to my bust area but that wasn’t enough to overcome the tummy arrow effect. The remaining front gathers were converted to an inverted pleat.
BTW: DH was not put off by the gathers at the bust area…
From the line drawing, the front neckline does point to the tummy, so I should have done a bit more planning.
 This time the side view is a bit less voluminous and if I was taller, that wouldn’t be an issue. The back fits really well.

The original adjustments were sway back adjustment, I took some of the volume out of the skirt by straightening the side seams. If I do this again, I’ll have to redraft the centre front and raise the front neckline. I’ll also buy better quality fabric too:)