UFO request – Vogue 8426

In June I received a PR message about this kick pleat skirt I made two years ago.
Hello Velosewer,
I saw that you made Vogue 8426 and that you mention having made a sway back adjustment. I wonder if you might be willing to share a tip on this? I’ve put together my muslin and I need to take it in somehow at the small of my back by an inch. I’d rather not take it in along the middle panels as they look so nice being straight and not vee’d like a dart but I don’t see another way. I would be most appreciative if you could tell me how you accomplished this!!!
Thanks for your consideration.
XYZ, Boston, MA
Well XYZ, here’s the ugly side of how I adjusted this pattern to fit me again. I’ve called her XYZ because I haven’t had a reply from her since I let her know that I’ve redone this skirt again to show the sway back adjustment.

This skirt took some time to initially make because I had lots of fitting issues, but I didn’t want to interrupt the curved design lines. Below are the pattern pieces in their new very hacked state as I’ve made it again and the sizing is smaller again. The curve pieces are very wide, so I’ve folded them back so the skirt doesn’t billow out. Before I use this pattern again, I will need to trace off the pieces onto new paper.

The main area that needed adjusting for the sway back was in the back pattern pieces. I did a bit of thinking and research before I had the guts to make this adjustment. Sherry does a good explanation about sway back analysis and adjustment.

The pieces that needed changing were essentially the back yoke but the adjustment was graduated through to the centre back skirt piece and the straight back skirt piece. I did have to adjust the curved side skirt pieces as part of the fitting process and not because of my sway back. Below is how this skirt looked after wearing it to work last week.

If you love this skirt design, then be prepared to make the adjustments you need to get the skirt  to hang right. It’s not hard to do but it’s worth the effort for a classically designed skirt.

Below is my pattern review.
Pattern Description: Skirt with shaped seams, back zipper, self-faced yoke and back pleat variation. I’ve made skirt A with a back kick pleat. This has a single pleat underlay that works really well if you’re wearing this skirt to work.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 10 and I think since I’ve adjusted it twice, I’ve made the 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The lines on this skirt are wonderful. I love the back kick pleat.
You have to be careful with the curve lines on your hips.
Fabric Used:
Linen blend with rayon lining. This pattern doesn’t have lining but I’ve added lining to keep the fabric color solid; remove the sheerness of the fabric; and generally help the skirt have less creases.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The skirt  length was shortened.
I did a sway back adjustment on the back yolk.
I also took out the fullness I added in the first time I made this 2 years ago.
I’ve folded back the full sides of the curved pieces.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I would.
I love this design and it can be adapted for solid fabric colours, especially if you are short.
Thumbs up.

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