Jalie works

While we have a mild Winter in Australia I still love rugging up.

This month it was an easy choice to make up a couple of activewear layers using Jalie pattern and Minerva fabric to keep me training during our ‘cold’ weather.

A key part of using Jalie patterns is they offer multiple sizes from children to adult sizes in one pattern. That’s a lot of sizes so it pays to also order a packet of tracing paper, which Minerva stocks. 

Get some Prym tracing carbon or any of Prym’s tracing tools to keep your patterns accurate. They are always good to have in your sewing basket.

Back to this month’s patterns:
Leggings (Jalie Isabelle) and a raglan (Jalie Marie-Claude pullover) top.

This year I used Jalie’s Isabelle leggings and skating pants. I don’t skate so I made the long leggings – view B –  for running. I have new shoes and insoles to support my feet after surgery in February.

The plan for the leggings combined black and white. I used plain stretch swimwear dress fabric in black and paired this with the zebra animal print stretch lycra swimwear fabric in black and white. These were simple choices as most people choose to wear basic black leggings, including myself.

The Isabelle leggings pattern needs 60% stretch fabric so these two fabric choices had what I needed in stretch and support. The zebra print is a poly spandex so it keeps it’s shape over time. The black fabric is polyamide and lycra, so again it has good stretch and strength.

The Jalie pocket in the waistband at the front is a good size and I keep my keys in this pocket. All my other essentials are usually strapped to my arm when I run.

Isabelle’s line drawing provides you with the opportunity to play with colour and pattern combinations.
Using amazing prints like this zebra print was lots of fun. I took the conservative option and kept the zebra print on the waistline on these leggings.

I chose the pocket on the waistband and used 2.5cm wide non-roll elastic on the waistband. The pattern states 1cm wide elastic but I prefer a firmer fit waistband when I run.

I increased the centre back seam by 3cm and then had to take out 2cm at the waistband width to make these fit me. The back waistband height adjustment would have been plenty without the width adjustment as the waistband has the elastic so don’t fret too much when you’re making these leggings.

The other adjustment I’m used to doing is lowering the centre front seam, again because of my shape. I kept the waistband pieces as it and only adjusted the main centre front panels.

The obvious change is shortening the leg length.

Raglan top
I had planned to make the raglan top out of a different knit but Jalie Marie-Claude pattern requires fabrics with 40% stretch. Again I had fun with this raglan top finding the best print/plain combination for me.

The zebra print is amazing and I’m so glad the main zebra swoosh (not a technical term) runs across my chest and then turns south. Neat print right!

I used size V and used the black fabric for the sleeves and neckline.
I sewed this pattern up so quickly that I forgot to sew up the sleeve cuff with a thumbhole. There’s always next time.

I would normally reduce the length of this pattern but because it’s a layer for the gym, I keep the top long so I can stretch,

and stretch,

and stretch with confidence.

Jalie patterns use 6mm seam allowances so they are great for sewing on an overlocker. They take no time to make and I made these two pieces on a Saturday.

The only thing I would love is for these patterns to have their instructions on a separate piece of paper. The pattern pieces and instructions are on the main pattern paper so this makes it hard to have the whole pattern open while sewing. The instructions are great it’s just cumbersome.

Jalie patterns have worked for me in the past and they continue to work for me now.


Jungle January @ Prttynpnk

Anne (Prttynpnk) from Pretty Grievances has launched a festival parade of animal print for January (and maybe the following months??). I was a lucky Pattern Pyramid recipient this year and I really need to make up one of these dress – so now I’ll aim to make an animal print dress in January.

If you haven’t read Pretty Grievances, you should because Anne is a sewer who’s blog posts and designer reviews are an absolute scream. I love ready her Wednesday fashion reviews the most. These and her sewing reviews are not to be missed. There’s even a flickr group.

Here are my animal print pieces last year ie 2012.

PJ bottoms (2 pairs)
Not quiet animal print for clothing. The littlest niece loves her pillow and hugs this to sleep.

 Lining in the leather handbag.

I recently bought a ‘winter ponte’ animal fabric on sale at Spotlight so this could be made into a McCalls 6243 shift dress with zips. Could. It’s an option.

I have the zips and the fabric/s.
I’m tossing up whether to go full animal print or partly animal with a solid colour.

zebra print – m5752

View A is the cap sleeve version and I’ve used this zebra print in a poly knit fabric.

The key pieces to get this pattern to sit right are the midriff panels.

Before I attempted making this dress I had to face up to the my actually sizing, take a deep breath of reality and adjust the midriff. The adjustment lines are on the pattern with an additional instruction sheet to help adjust the pattern to fit your shape.

The midriff facing is a nude colour knit and I think if you really want to have some support, use a power knit that you would use for swimwear, as an option. I’ve also used seams great on the shoulder seams for long term stability.

This is definitely going to be a social dress and not one that I wear to work, although I’m tempted to put the zebra amongst the pidgeons 🙂

B5333 – dress toile

This time I did 3 things when making up Dress C.
  • I adjusted this pattern with the changes from the first toile that I’ve now got a fresh set of working pattern pieces so the adjusted patterns remain untouched until my body shape changes – again.
  • I followed the pattern instructions so that I got the hang of finishing the neckline properly. If you have this pattern, I added the skirt once the bodice was finished properly ie, do point 9 after point 15.
  • I used an invisible zip and enclosed it with the bodice lining.
The inside of the bodice has no seam finishes because it’s lined. The upper bodice was lined with white shirting fabric so I didn’t need to match the zebra print from the inside.
Here’s how I had to check the bodice fit without my sewing buddies 😦

This shows how the shoulders are now sitting on my shoulders without fear of them falling off, and I can still wear ‘engineering’ underneath. There are two small darts under the bust.
Here’s the sort of side view.
So this version has:
– sway back adjustment
– dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
– full bust adjustment – c cup
– shoulders moved in by 3cm closer to my neck
– split the bust dart into two smaller darts
– roll shoulder (2 cm)
– waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist
– dropped the upper body piece by 2cm to take the midriff seam line under my bust.
Once I tried on the skirt, I removed 2.5cm from the back seam. It was really big – even on me!