What started out as weekend cargo pants are now work wear. How did that happen?
Was it the fabric?
This fabric was an unloved stash from a local sewer. Even I thought this fabric would be an ‘ok’ pattern testing fabric.
It’s a bit scratchy and flimsy.
It’s a non-colour on both sides so I used the dark side.
|Front view with a me-made top.
Was it the pattern?
This is clearly a cargo pattern. Cargoes are usually a forgiving style (weekend worthy) and I made the 4 grading it to 6 at the hips. Peggy of Silhouette Patterns uses this block for her jeans pattern.
Was it the notions?
Probably. I’ve used stash buttons and zipper in the ‘beige-est’ of beige.
How about the finishings?
I did use triple thread coverstitching in a few places but not a lot. The fly front stitching uses a nothing colour so it’s not obvious. See the lining.
I cut the outer leg pockets to a smaller size so that weren’t as big as designed. These pockets are designed to sit flat and they do.
About the pattern
This pattern is multisized and comes in 4 – 18 and 14W – 28W.
It took me over an hour to cut out all the pieces. That prep time included pattern adjustments for length and depth. The techie stuff is below.
Peggy suggests making these cargoes in 3 steps.
1. Cut out the pieces.
2. Make up the front and back legs.
3. Sew the pants together with the outside pockets and tabs.
I took an hour to make the back welt pockets and sew in the zipper.
The outer pockets were another sit and concentrate session.
So I’ve made these cargoes in 5 steps to focus on these features.
I like how these cargoes are fitted at the waist and hips and not saggy, baggy cargoes, so they are work appropriate.
The technical stuff:
My adjustments basic trouser adjustments:
1. Deepened the back crotch curve
2. Sway back curve.
3. Shortened the leg length (#shortgirl)
4. Shortened the pocket bag (#shortgirl)
5. Added room for my thighs on the front and back leg (Cylindrical lower torso).
|On this top, the lines at the centre back seam matched 🙂
My ‘go to’ pattern fitting book is Fitting and pattern alteration or what we refer to as ‘the big red book’. Not much tweaking needed
Thanks to The Monthly Stitch for getting me to focus on Smarty pants this month.
Thanks for stopping by:)
Burda has edgier styles than BMV patterns; I like these pockets on this style; and I need work pants that fit well at the back. This pair will be part of my one pattern, one week challenge. I love the style and I have a couple of fabrics in my stash that will be great for work and on the weekend, so I’m hoping none of these will be wardrobe orphans and one pair may be vintage looking. You never know.
Last year I tested a range of pants to get my skills up and have pants that worked. The back was the usally my challenge so now I want to take my skills up another level – whatever that means. When I did my research on PR I found that Mushywear had done a great looking pair so I must be on the right track. She has such great style.
I’ve used a linen woven and the pocket lining has a similar light weight poly fabric in a similar colour. The initial adjustments were:
– Increasing back leg width by 2 cm and tapered from top to 6 cm
– Increased back crotch by 2cm.
|The blue pen shows the back leg width extension. The pencil shows the extended back crotch curve.
On the weekend Angie checked the fit and I resewed the side seams out by 1/2cm.
This adjustment is now on the pattern and I’m really pleased with these so I’ll definitely make these again. I love the square long line pocket style. By the way, the front waistband met this time ’round.
|A closer look at the long angular pocket style. The pocket line will lie flatter with twill tape or interfacing.
|I have some work jackets that need matching pants so I’ll use this again. When I do this in winter weight fabric, I’ll increase the size so that I can adjustment them for the heavier fabric weight.Here’s a Burda skinny jeans version to try.
Last night I had a go an adjusting these pants. The fabric is a slight stretch woven. I have similar grey work jackets and I needed a grey pair of pants that fit. Unfortunately the side pockets again gaped too much for my liking. So I took them out. You can see the pocket shape I used on the front in the picture below. The lighter grey fabric is the pocket lining. I ran out of the grey wool fabric.
I think I am addicted to sewing because I woke up at 5am and finished these pants. What was bugging me was the amount of slack or billowing that was happening down both sides of the leg. Last night I eased our 2cm from the outer leg and 1cm from the inner leg. There’s still a bit of bulk so I’ll ease this out another time.
I think the next step is going to be to try a new pattern with a slim fit leg. So after making x number of pants this year, I’ve learnt lots about pocket placement, a bit more about fit and I think I can now attempt jeans. The back view still looks wedgie through. I’ll have to add a bigger butt curve. Now that’ll be fun.
Tip: When I took the waistaband off and cut the waist down to size, I put two safety pins mid way along the zipper, so I wouldn’t accidentally pull the zipper handle off the zipper. I’ve done that heaps of times before.
Since I’ve done a few separate pieces I thought you might be interested in how I put these pieces together for work. There’s nothing too flash about how I style my wardrobe but each piece fits well. The only piece I didn’t make was the beige skirt. I bought it because I loved the style and fabric.