I call this fabric friendly coating because if you’re scared to make a coat, this fabric can be easily molded into shape as you sew.
The weave is firm, open and soft. It looks like a knit fabric but it’s woven.
When I needed to ease the sleeve into the jacket, the fabric was quite obliging and sat in across all the notches. Hand-stitching the lining and the press studs didn’t tire out my fingers and that’s why I felt this fabric is friendly.
Minerva Crafts has recently purchased a huge range of paisley linings. Finding a matching lining for this coating would have driven me to distraction and this antique gold that was easy to choose from their website.
Butterick 6062 is a classic styled jacket but I prefer to use it for coats. There’s just enough shaping for my height.
Thick fabricThis coating is thick. Very thick so that can seem scary. How will my little sewing machine cope with sewing through 4 to 8 layers of this fabric?
The collar is where I had to sew through many layers of this coating. But I simply slowed down my sewing machine speed dial; took in a deep breath; relaxed; and started sewing slowly. Slower than usual.
This coating doesn’t fray so it held together nicely as I sewed through each construction stage.
I bet you noticed Butterick 6062 doesn’t have a collar? You were right. It doesn’t.
When I made the Burda jacket last month, the collar pattern was a simple rectangle folded lengthways and sewed onto the neckline. Such a simple concept!
That’s all I did.
While there are always constructions hurdle to tackle as you sew a coat, I love the detailing.
This is where I can add or subtract the details I want to add.
I really don’t like patch pockets. You have to be accurate and I’d love to find a patch pocket pattern where the lining doesn’t peek over the pocket opening.
Once I start sewing on the Berisford grosgrain ribbon, I got an idea of how the coat might look.
The pattern suggests minimal interfacing, but it suggests softer fabrics.
I wear coats and jackets all the time and what makes them long-lasting is using interfacing to keep it’s shape for longer.
There’s interfacing in the collar, on the facings and I’ve added interfacing across the front and back shoulders.
The interfacing Minerva Crafts provided was a medium-weight iron-on woven. It irons on easily with some steam. The interfacing glue doesn’t seep onto my iron.
The prospect of sewing welt buttonholes wasn’t in my plans because this fabric is quite thick so I chose these 15mm Prym snaps.
Making ponte pants can be a hit or miss exercise. Anita Ponte Pants pattern by Tessuti’s is a quick sew and with the right ‘body’ dimensions and good quality fabric, these are perfect for winter.
Making trousers or leggings will be frustrating if you don’t know your shape. Investing time and help to know your shape is invaluable. I’ve been making pants for a while now and I know that my curves have changed so I can add these changes to many pants patterns.
For me, being ‘petite’ means I have to get the shape right and the length right at two places.
As a cyclist, I also need to avoid creating baggy knees with ponte pants. There’s a lot of muscle in these little legs so some shaping happens at the knees. Nothing scientific. It’s all based on my shape at the time.
Here’s the original pattern.
Here’s ‘my’ ponte pants pattern. Shorter legs. Shaping at the knees. My curve mark are drawn rough on the pattern. Sway back adjustment. Shortened the centre front seam. But – they fit like a dream. And – it was worth the effort.
I’ve now made these four times. I live in these ponte pants when it’s cold. My days of wearing baggy, RTW leggings are over.
|Ponte pants paired with Anita winter tee|
This test version uses ponte from my stash. As you can see from the front view, I didn’t have enough fabric (not usually a petite problem) so I made a feature of the join below the knee.
The ponte quality is ok and I was able to resew the seams to get the fit right at my knees.
Here’s the ‘good’ version made with a basic Chorizo Squad ponte and elastic from Tessuti’s.
|Chorizo ponte pants with Mandy boat tee.|
This fabric has a good amount of spandex (Oxblood Red 66% Viscose 30% Nylon 4% Spandex Ponti Double Knit. Width:150cm).
I use less than 1 metre so I’m pleased at being able to make great leggings that keep their shape and colour using Tessutis ponte.
|I used clover clips to avoid making pin holes in this spandex|
And for a bit of shine, I bought a $10 remnant from the Melbourne Tessuti’s store in July and made these.
|Anita shiny ponte pants with Anita knit winter hoodie.|
Just for fun – I think the ‘disco-chick’ in me is still there somewhere – just waiting to get out.
Mr V chuckles when he sees me wear this pair.
So I had a nice Winter collection this year.
When the seasons change, I check Mum’s clothes to see what I can do to give her ‘options’ for her lifestyle and less flexible hands. This time I’ve developed a beige collection with easy to wear skirts and I’ll working on some light coloured knit tops for some new winter layers. I made her a fleece coat last winter so this will also go with this collection. The previous skirts I made her were all dark and her measurements haven’t changed since 2010.
These skirts are dead easy but she expects good straight skirts to be lined, so they are lined with sunsilky (my fav) and I’ve used non-roll elastic in a waistline casing. Her hip measurement is 44″ so I added 2″ and cut them long enough for a 2″ casing and a 2″ hem. The beige print is similar to a jacket that Mum already has so she might or might not style these together.
Each skirt has a centre back split so she can hop into the car when we go out. And she’s very social so she gets out and about quiet a bit.
|Kwik Sew 3658|
|Kwik Sew 2694|
I’m leaning towards Kwik Sew 3658 with long sleeves or 2694 view A for her new basic winter top layers. She has some great chunky knit cardies from last winter that I know she wears often so that’ll give me time to make her a new casual jacket in the coming months.
The new jacket will be Kwik Sew 3716. I have the beige woven fabric and a print on beige for her. The outside pockets are a feature she loves so I think she’ll be happy with this.
DH isn’t feeling the sewing love so I can feel some DH alterations approaching my sewing room soon…
This is a favourite pattern I’ve used for coats McCalls 8971.
The pinky coat is fabric I purchased at Pitt Trading. The fabric is silk and the weave is fairly open so I made the seams wider to ensure it would unravel too quickly as I sewed it up. The pockets are in the side seams so they don’t make me look smaller.
The beige coat is a softer wool fabric that has lots of interfacing and tailoring so that it stays in shape for a long time.
I can’t remember where I bought it from, but it took a few seasons to get the courage choose a pattern and make this coat. They’re both comfortable, warm and fit nicely over a tailored suit in the winter.
PS. If you’d like some more technical details, drop me a line.