Boxy jacket no 2 – McCalls 5007

Here’s a pattern that’s now OOP but I’ve only just opened it. Isn’t that always the case?
McCalls 5007 is another jacket that I thought was cute and could be handy.

I used Angie’s help getting the fit of this right too. This was my first choice for a chanel jacket. Oh well. Now I know that I have to wear more structured clothes.

The back now has darts so that it fits better at the back.
The fabric was a Pitt Trading remnant, so I’m not sure of its makeup but I loved the colour and the embellishment.

Fitting B5333

The shiny woven purple fabric is again being used as the toile for this top. This fabric is light weight and has no stretch.

I like the design fit of this top and it can be extended to become a dress. This is a really neat feature that I just love. This picture was my first sneak peek at how the pieces fit together to form the front.

I spent a couple of hours adjusting this pattern while we were away a few weeks ago. So the technical adjustments include:

– sway back adjustment
– dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
– full bust adjustment – c cup
– roll shoulder (2 cm)
– waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist
– dropped the upper body piece by 2 cm to take the midriff seam line under my bust.

The photo below shows where the side zip goes. I’ve used pins at this stage.

These first photos show where my way of checking that the single layer actually fit on me. At this point it does fit me but needed some tweaking at the midriff. I had a bit too much in the front skirt piece so I positioned a couple of pleats to match the bust point dart. The darts were side bust darts were also 2cm too high (doh) and needed to be shorter by 2.5cm.
Here’s where I should have stopped. I pinched out some fabric from the front midriff where the bust points are to make the waist fit better – ahh. I now need to do this top again, however, that’s why it’s a toile.

I didn’t follow the pattern neckline finish because I was testing out the fit of this top. I will follow the neckline finish for the next attempt.

This top does feel comfortable especially with the lined upper top and midriff piece. I have now brought the shoulder line closer to my neck because they felt like they were about to slip off my shoulders. I’ve also lowered the armhole so it eliminates the lines and doesn’t look like it’s cutting into my arm. As you can see, I don’t have Michelle Obama’s arms.

The bias binding was used to bring out the purple in the fabric. I’ve finished this toile and it’s going to be a weekend top.

Reality adjustments

Last night I wore this wearable toile out to dinner Butterick 5046. We went to a local Nepalese place and had a good night out. So good, I forgot that I was meeting friends today. Doh.

Anyway, this top looked really good with jeans and the silver thread in the fabric, meant I didn’t need to wear blingy earrings etc. What I did realise is there was a bit of billowing happening between my bust and the waist band.

As you can see below, I’ve taken some of the fullness out of the neck line, but there was still some fullness under the bust.
So I undid the waistband and tucked in the excess fabric. The buttons had a similar purple stripe in them. I found the buttons at the local thrift/tailor shop.

These changes are now going to be included in the pattern. I figure that the silver thread make this fabric sit up more that cotton/silk fabric would do. It’s a really light piece of fabric, but I think the metallic thread makes any bulk stand up instead of fall gracefully. I’ve got a black piece of this fabric that I’ll use for the dress with sleeves version.
I’m using the rest of this fabric for the top toile of Butterick 5333.
This top is fitted, and should work with this fabric. What I will do is use a stretch woven when I make this top properly because it will feel nicer if it becomes a work top.
BTW, I’m not going to do the mini wardrobe. I’m going to focus on working on new patterns for the next few months.

I need buttons – Butterick 5046

Here’s my toile and as you can tell, it needs a couple of buttons on the waistband as well as a hook at the cross over point.

Technical stuff:
  • Lowered the waist line by 5cm
  • Did a full bust adjustment and then dropped the bust point on the fabric by 2.5cm (gravity)
  • Took out 4cm from the centre back, as you can see below.
  • Slivered out 2cm from the back sleeve hem (gaposis). I’ll use soft gathers next time.
  • I used used the foot D on my Janome to roll hem for quite a few finishes.

I added the purple bias to bring out the purple colour as the fabric is a big grey with the silver. The fabric is more suitable for a western hoe down outfit but I thought this top would work with dark skinny jeans, and it does. Once I get the buttons done, I’ll post up a final pic.
I’ve already found another fabric in my stash to work this top into a dress – yeah!
This morning I did a very hilly training ride and covered 68km. The road surface and the traffic coming home were my biggest hurdles. I’d also forgotten how many hills were out at West Head. Maybe my body will forgive me by Tuesday.

Autumn change – Butterick 5046

Today is the first day of autumn and I can feel the need to add some colour to my sewing again. I also did a stock take of the common patterns that I make regularly and that’s about to change again – pattern boredom.

Butterick 5046 is my first planned change. I’ll still make this with a shiny purple cotton woven to check the fit. I bought this pattern sometime last year during an online so hopefully I’ll have this ready to show and tell next week.
I’m working on view A so the pieces now have FBA, hip adjustment, sway back adjustment, neckline gaposis – but I’m still using size 12. As the fabric has a silver thread in it, it’s definitely itchy, so it can’t become a sleepwear…
PS: Yesterday I finally did some cycle training before the humidity kicked in. 50km of hill training. Call me a mountain goat, but it felt good. DH slept in and had just finished breakie when I came home, so we both had a good morning.