Satin ‘n lace

Here’s lace overlay dress I’ve been working on using White Tree Fabrics duchess satin and lace. McCalls 6028 seemed the best fit for the lace dress idea on my Pinterest board.
I do like this dress.
I enjoy working with lace and it seems to be everywhere these days. The duchess satin is firm enough and creates a defined shape without clinging to your body.

So the key to making this dress look great was to mirror the lace edges evenly, after getting a great dress fit.
This really shows how lovely lace is.
Balancing the curves is a key of this dress. The lace I used had a flower just inside the curve that I decided to use as the balance.

I’ve used blue lace on blue satin so it’s hard to see but it’s there.

Waistband and neckline
The waist band wasn’t my initial plan but I added the waistband so you can’t see the lace join. 
Before the waistband.
The waistband make the lace look consistent and continuous, especially for someone my height.
After adding the waistband and hand stitching the lace to the satin.
The neckline on the pattern is round so I’ve drafted it to a high v-neckline and adjusted the lining to suit is.

Sleeves
The sleeves were a small challenge too. A small change because I placed the lace flower on the same spot on both sleeves. 



I’ve used bias binding for the sleeve seams and then whip stitched them to the dress facing so from the outside you see more sleeve and less seam allowance.
Cutting the sleeve so the lace flowers mirror each other.
This lace is so impressive in real life. I think it deserves a light colour satin to really show the lace detailing. I’ll keep that in mind for the lace remnant I have.


I placed a sparkly buttons at the top of each sleeve, just for the effect.

Hand stitching
While this satin seams only needs overlocking, I did under stitch and hand stitch the neckline facing.


The sleeve seam is hand stitched to the bodice so you see more lace that seam allowance. The hems and sleeve seam allowances are bias bound.


I enjoyed the slow hand stitching of the skirt lace overlay to the skirt satin.
Basically I have a few formal dinners coming up and I now have a lovely dress I can wear and know it fits well.

Stormset for him

Kwik Sew 2881 is a classic men’s pattern for a classic bloke like Mr V. 


I’ve used RO209 Stormset Blue print for this set using fabric from Funki Fabrics. Stormset is appropriate based on the tropical storms we’ve been getting so far this Summer.

The contrast is a navy blue and these trunks has the leg seams so there’s no chafing.

 Here’s his new summer set

This fabric was really easy to hem on the coverstitch machine.

 He’s really happy with his new rashie. It dried off very fast on a 40C day by the pool.

Do you think he’s going to expect more makes for Summer? What have I done?

Thank you Funki Fabrics for these two fabrics. The colours have held up in the heat so far and we’ve got a long Summer ahead, and we’re so ready for a day on the beach, once the sharks leave Bondi Beach:)

About the fabrics 

Funki Fabrics are polyester print base and they are also: 

  • Ulta chlorine resistant
  • Pilling resistant
  • Shape retention
  • Two way stretch 
  • UV protective

Mr V loves the UV protection. He burns so easily even in the Winter.

If you’re seriously considering sewing your own activewear, read Susan’s activewear post that she wrote earlier this year. Her sewing industry knowledge is priceless.

Dark blue buttons

Thank you for the comments. The dark blue buttons won, so 9 button holes and 9 buttons sewn on later, the shirtmaker dress is finished. Even though this has taken a while (three months) in between study, rugby and family commitments, I will make this again. I never thought rugby would ever impact my sewing.

 Here’s a list of what I did to this toile.

– normal seams and turned over edges, like I was first taught at school,
– lining front and back using a combination of chiffon and poplin. I ran out of the chiffon because this was a last minute decision to go from toile to wearable toile
– blue and white ribbon tape with white border on collar stay and sleeve hem
– 9 x 13mm shank buttons. I did buy a spare button.
– hand stitched front tab, inside collar and buttons.

– roll shoulder adjustment
– sway back adjustment
– dropped bust point by 3cm (age/gravity)
The back bodice looks messy because this fabric is as stiff as tissue paper. When I make this dress again, I’ll use fabric with some drape to it. Then I will also taper the hem so that it sits closer to my body.

Vanuatu wrap up

We spent 6 great days in Vanuatu and chilled out, escaping a week of winter cold.
The nice thing was I got to just sit and read, a pleasure I don’t get at home. We did snorkel around a couple of reefs, kiyaked and relaxed just a bit. I did buy a few metres of fabrics in great dark summer prints so they are now maturing in my fabric stash.
These pants Butterick 5044 were finished in time for our trip. I am mozzie chocolate so I needed pants to avoid being eaten at night. The good thing was mozzies were not an issue. They usually are in tropical countries, so I was one happy tourist.

I did a slight adjustment by raising lowering the front waistline and raised the centre back waist line. I also slivered the pants width at the ankles. The pants width seemed overwhelming so I had to trim the width down. I also added a small vent at the ankles but you can’t really tell from these pics.

Since coming home I’ve been working on the anorak McCalls 5635 and today I finished it, with advice from my sewing buddies. Alison gave me a lesson applying a couple of long prong snaps from the Snap source, on the sleeve hems.
I combined views B and C, so I have the collar and hoodie for a challenge. You can also see that I used a chunky plastic zip and cord. I hand stitched the zipper in before machining it in, so that it wouldn’t slide around, if I just used pins.

I also used satin bias on the waist for the cord. I cut this as a size 11, so I cut between size 10 and 12. All seams are overlocked. I now need some beads for the cord ends. I’ll use fraycheck to keep the cord ends from unravelling.

By the way, I won’t be wearing the matching pants and jacket unless I want to upset the fashion police. My laptop was fixed today so there will be more posts, more often.
These were taken on our only boat trip at Vanuatu. The boardies were good while walking on Tranquility Island and checking out the turtle sanctuary.
The swimmers did well when were snorkelling.
Yes – no hairdryer.