Thank you for the comments. The dark blue buttons won, so 9 button holes and 9 buttons sewn on later, the shirtmaker dress is finished. Even though this has taken a while (three months) in between study, rugby and family commitments, I will make this again. I never thought rugby would ever impact my sewing.
Here’s a list of what I did to this toile.
– normal seams and turned over edges, like I was first taught at school,
– lining front and back using a combination of chiffon and poplin. I ran out of the chiffon because this was a last minute decision to go from toile to wearable toile
– blue and white ribbon tape with white border on collar stay and sleeve hem
– 9 x 13mm shank buttons. I did buy a spare button.
– hand stitched front tab, inside collar and buttons.
– roll shoulder adjustment
– sway back adjustment
– dropped bust point by 3cm (age/gravity)
The back bodice looks messy because this fabric is as stiff as tissue paper. When I make this dress again, I’ll use fabric with some drape to it. Then I will also taper the hem so that it sits closer to my body.