Thank you for the comments. The dark blue buttons won, so 9 button holes and 9 buttons sewn on later, the shirtmaker dress is finished. Even though this has taken a while (three months) in between study, rugby and family commitments, I will make this again. I never thought rugby would ever impact my sewing.
Here’s a list of what I did to this toile.
– normal seams and turned over edges, like I was first taught at school,
– lining front and back using a combination of chiffon and poplin. I ran out of the chiffon because this was a last minute decision to go from toile to wearable toile
– blue and white ribbon tape with white border on collar stay and sleeve hem
– 9 x 13mm shank buttons. I did buy a spare button.
– hand stitched front tab, inside collar and buttons.
– roll shoulder adjustment
– sway back adjustment
– dropped bust point by 3cm (age/gravity)
The back bodice looks messy because this fabric is as stiff as tissue paper. When I make this dress again, I’ll use fabric with some drape to it. Then I will also taper the hem so that it sits closer to my body.
This is a classic shirt style (McCalls 5433) that I thought would be worthwhile making. It has tab front and enough detailing to wrestle with a few finishing options to make the same dress look a bit different. You would remember this dress from Sharon’s blog. And I made the shirt version in December last year.
The toile fabric is from Rathdowne (Melbourne fabric shopping visit in 2009). It’s a chambray blue colour and light weight but stiff and very sheer. The fabric irons really well and the weave makes it unravel easily. So with that in mind, halfway through testing out this style I decided this version could be wearable, so I’ve lined it with a 3/4 chiffon and 1/4 poplin. I didn’t have enough chiffon in my stash, so I’ve made do with some poplin.
The original toile was going to have long sleeves with a cuff, but because the fabric is lightweight, I’ve decided on a short sleeve with cuff. I saw a someone on the street wear the same dress and it had short sleeve with cuff, so that helped me make up my mind.
As you can see, the sleeve has the same ribbon detail as the inside collar stand. The lining is the same dark blue colour as the ribbon detail, so I think it might be worthwhile getting dark blue coloured buttons. What do you think?
With the left over fabric, I’ll make a belt.
I don’t love the sleeves at the moment so at some point I’ll have to either take them out or change the length of the sleeves. I can add another horizontal pleat if need be.
By the way, yesterday we visited Sydney’s first fabricabrac to see what fabric was on offer from other like-minded sewers who were selling from their stashes. The venue was probably large enough but it was packed with curious sewers. They also had a coffee bar so I think the organisers should have had a successful event.
Sharon’s rust shirtmaker dress made a strong impression on me because she always does excellent finishing and she’s got a great eye for detail. Her dress is really well made and fits her perfectly. Anyway, she inspired me to pay more attention to my sewing so at the last Rhodes Guild session I cut out a shirt length style with the aim to lift my game. I got to the point of adding the collar and put it aside do to Mum’s sewing.
This weekend I made time to work on it a bit at a time, and not rush into it. DH was helpful in deciding what buttons to add to the shirt. First time! Anyway, I wanted a cap sleeve, so I took the sleeve from B5328.
Here’s how my shirt turned out. I do like the fabric contrasts. The skirt was made earlier this year and it’s become a work staple.
The front and back pieces are lined because of the embroidered cut out bits in the fabric. The lining is a lightweight poplin. I’ve used this for the front and back pieces, collar band and button front.
The back needs more adjusting and the black buttons were from a Lincraft sales years ago.
This shows the french seams, bias sleeve finish and the lining effect on the inside.