Jackie contest launch

The seasons are changing so you may have already made your Jackie for Winter.
Janelle’s first Jackie
Maybe you’re considering making Jackie for Fall?
My first Jackie
Either way COB 31 October is the date we’ll announce the two (that’s right two) winners of the Jackie contest.
The winning entries will be chosen using that ‘random number generator’ thingy.
Get cracking and sew your version of Jackie. Make more than one if you want. Make three!

Post it onto the Flickr page. Post it on your blog.
Enter as many times as you like for a better chance of winning.
What do you need to do?
1. Make your Jackie by 31 October.
2. Post a pic of you wearing your finished Jackie onto the Flickr page or on your blog.
3. Leave a comment on this post with a link to your Jackie.
It’s pretty easy.
1st prize – $30 fabric voucher for winner
If the winner is from Australia or NZ, you’ll receive a Remnant Fabric Warehouse AUS$30 voucher. If the winner is from the rest of the world, you’ll receive a Fabric.com US$30 voucher.
2nd prize
Your pick of any Iconic Pattern pdf pattern.

Convinced yet? 
PS: Don’t forget you can download Sammy Cami for free from Iconic patterns.
No matter when you decide to make your Jackie, our sewalong posts will always be available. 
Personally I love the welt pocket template, collar styling and bound buttonholes Lena provides with Jackie.

Jackie – It’s orange

Jackie is my ‘just grab it’ jacket for Winter.

My head cold dictated being rugged up in a warm, soft jacket with a collar that hugs me was perfect.
Here’s how I’ve worn Jackie during the week.
Orange really lifts my spirits on a cold and very grey winter’s day.

Jackie has also been a fun casual jacket too.

My ta dah picture.

The plant behind me only flowers at the end of Winter. Yay.

See what I mean about a great colour making grey look amazing.

Lena has some prizes up her sleeve for Jackie sewalong-ers. I’ll give you those details shortly.

Have you see Janelle’s jacket yet? 

I’ll add Janelle’s photos here once her post goes live. Her work is impeccable. Take a peek on the Flickr group.
When I make Jackie again, I’ll get my hem right. 
I got my measurements wrong so I had to redo the lengths are here’s the result. I didn’t make a test jacket so I’ll just have to live with these results.

Hi five if you’ve started your own Jackie. Or finished it as the case may be?

I’ll update our sewalong posts soon.

Go to the flickr group and add your version – whenever you’re ready.

Jackie: Lining, collar and facings

This black acetate is a medium weight fabric and will add to the coat weight. It’s lovely and smooth.
Sewing black fabric can be a pain to see so I use a dark contrasting colour thread to help me see and unpick seams easily. I’ve used brown thread on black in the lightened pic below.

I use the pins to remind me to stop and leave a side seam gap for later. Can you see what I’ve done? The crosswise pins act as my reminder to leave a gap.

The lining sews together really quickly and is then easy to sew onto the facings.

Collar and facings
Preparing the collar and facings starts off lovely, then becomes messy, then is lovely again.

The back and front facings are sewn together. That’s looking clean enough.

Then I added a trim along the facing edge that joins the lining. This is not part of the instructions. This is my ‘take’ on making jackets.

Here’s where the mess begins.

I’ve trimmed the collar to facing and the cut away pieces always make a mess but this trimming helps these layers to sit flat. 

If you look closely, I’ve used two layers of interfacing on the collar. This keeps the collar structure without it being too stiff.
And here’s the inside view of the collar sewn onto the jacket. Messy looking but it all sits flat.

This story does have a collar and lining happy ending. It’s neat and clean.

 Here’s how the collar with lining now sits nicely. The black trim worked too.

I found some Craftsy writers that have some good information to keep in mind when you’re at this stage.

  • The beauty of understitching facings by Linda Reynolds on Craftsy.
  • Andrea Brown on Craftsy shows how to sew a double welt pockets the way Roberta taught me years ago when she used to teach at the Sydney McCalls warehouse.

    Jackie: welt pockets

    If you’ve already made the buttonholes, these pockets will be a breeze to sew.

    Here are you pocket pieces ready to work with.

    Mark the pocket with the pocket template.

    I’ve then stitched around the pocket markings. Here’s the front view.

    Here’s the back view.

    The welt pieces are then sewn together and turned to the right side.

    Here are the pocket back pieces with welt. 

    Pin the pocket pieces to the coat and pin down the full pieces so they don’t slide under and get caught up when sewing. I’ve had this happen to me before. #sadface.

    Before I cut the jacket pocket, I check the pieces were sewn on properly.

    If there’s a bit that wasn’t sewn on properly, I’ll resew this piece. No unpicking necessary.

    Then I cut the fabric and pull through the pocket pieces. 

    This bit is fiddly so I’ve used the diagram so you can see that you capture the cut ends and sew them flat to the pocket pieces before you finish sewing the pocket bag.

    Here’s the finished product.

    And that’s it for making welt pockets with the welt piece machine sewn onto the coat.

    Jackie: roll shoulder adjustment

    Jackie has raglan sleeves and I still need to make a roll shoulder adjustment so let me show you how.

    The adjustment above is from my adjustment reference book: Fitting and pattern alterations: A multi-method approach to the art of style selection, fitting and alteration by E. Liechty, J. Rasband and D. Pottberg-Steineckert. Expensive book to buy but used a lot. 

    In the photo above, the red marks above show where to add room at the seam line and where to cut hinges to do this. The cross marks indicate where you take room out at the seam line.
    Above is my crude way of doing this. So I added 1.5cm for the back seams on the back piece and back seam on the sleeve and then excess removed from the front seams (1.5cm) using hinges.
    That’s all I needed to change for a roll shoulder on a raglan sleeve.
    And as we head into the weekend, here’s what Janelle, Lena and I have covered.
    Printing your pattern. 

    I bet you’ve already finished your Jackie just in time for the cold spell we’re having right now.

    Jackie: Does size matter?

    If you’ve printed your pattern and are trying to figure out what size to choose, there are a couple of reality check things you can do before you decide to pick your size.

    1. Do you have a jacket that you love? 
    Yes: Grab your measuring tape and check the dimensions on this jacket.
    No: Go to your nearest mall and find a jacket that has the dimensions that you are comfortable with. Then check the dimensions of this jacket. How you do this is up to you…

    2. What would you realistically wear under your jacket?
    One layer: Go for good fit across your shoulders, high bust and back width. Maybe even slim down the sleeve width.
    Two layers: Go for a relaxed fit across your shoulders, high bust and back width. Check the sleeve fullness over the type of layers you would wear under your Jackie coat.

    I have to admit, my maths is fairly basic so I’ll always check what my size is at the time of making each project, even when I’ve made the pattern before.

    What’s your size?
    Iconic patterns lists their sizes here.

    The beauty of Jackie is it’s a warm layer and as the jacket is a-line, the main fitting focus is at the bust and shoulders. You know your shape.

    Threads has a good article about picking your size.

    Grading across patterns
    Jackie is a multi size pattern. This gives you the lines you need to grade your sizes. This gives you and easy way to grade your jacket to fit you – ‘grading 101’ if you like.

    This is all the grading I needed. Size 8 at bust and size 10 at hips.

    What size do you think you’ll need?

    Jackie: printing your pattern

    If you already know how to print pdf patterns, ignore this post.
    The jacket construction posts are next so stay tuned.

    Did I hear you say ‘I don’t use pdf patterns’?
    If you did, this post might help you realise pdf pattern are a fast way of getting the pattern you love right now.
    You know you want to. But you may have had a bad experience. Am I right?

    Iconic pdf facts
    Here are three pdf pattern facts about Iconic patterns.

    • If you decide to use the print shop version, Iconic Patterns can be printed on 36″ (91 cm) wide paper.
    • You can use A4 or US Letter size paper to print your Iconic Pattern at home.
    • The sewing instructions are part of the pdf and there are additional instructions on the Iconic Pattern website.

    PDF patterns will have a test square for you to check your printer settings are correct.

    Lena has already written a neat post about printing pdf patterns.

    Check the version
    If you decide to print this pattern at home, make sure it’s the latest version. So if you have a pdf pattern in your pattern stash and you’re not sure it’s the latest version, check with the pattern designer. Send them an email. Am I right Gabrielle?

    Print the pages with no scaling
    Tiled patterns are printed with either ‘no scaling’ or at ‘100%’. I always choose ‘no scaling’ when I print so I know the version I printed pattern is not changed.

    Don’t print from the skydrive or cloud
    That’s what I did thinking this would be faster than downloading the pdf file to the computer and than printing it using Adobe Reader. 
    When I printed the pdf pattern from the sky drive, the pages didn’t print off correctly. Bits were missing. The pattern tiles were not complete or to scale.

    This was printed from the sky drive – wrong.

    Then I tried again by printing the pdf using Adobe Reader. The pages were perfect.

    Leave the borders on your pattern pieces.
    Iconic patterns line up nicely with the border lines left on each piece.
    To keep your master pattern firm, have at least one side overlap so the paper pieces are stable to use again and again.

    I cut the border off the pattern pieces in sets of 5 and they looked too small. That was a disaster waiting to happen. There are no tile matching notches on Iconic patterns so you’ll need to leave the page borders on each page to make sure each tile lines up correctly.

    Read this if this is your first crack at pattern downloads using a pdf file

    Grab Adobe Reader for free to download your pattern and find the test page. Adjust some of the print settings in the Adobe Reader Print dialog.

    Try this:
    1. Open the PDF file.
    If you can’t find the pdf you downloaded, check your hard drive ‘downloads’ drive.
    Still can’t find it?  Search ‘1501’ in your file search field. 1501 is the name in all three pdfs for Jackie.

    2. Page through until you are viewing page 12 with the test square. 

    Print this page off first and check the test square dimensions. If they are wrong, try changing the printer setting page settings to ‘none’. 

    3. Start the printing process by pressing Control +P or go to File, then select print. 

    4. To print only the test page, in the Print Range box, click the radio button to select Current Page (the page you are currently viewing). Note that you can use various settings in the Print Range box to control which pages to print.

    5. In the Page Handling box, use the Page Scaling drop-down list and select None. (In my experience, this is usually the correct Page Handling setting for printing PDF patterns.)

    6. Click the OK button to print the test page.

    7. Measure the test box on the printed test page. If it’s the right size, then use None as the Page Handling setting when you print the entire PDF file. .

    Others who have good printing pdf patterns posts are: 

    Burda Style
    Christine Johnson
    Lekala patterns

    Cutting Tips

    • Choose your size based on the pattern measurements.
    • Cut out each piece along the corresponding lines but leave the borders.
    • Keep your tape handy in case you need to make the paper a little more secure.