|Janelle’s first Jackie|
Jackie is my ‘just grab it’ jacket for Winter.
I use the pins to remind me to stop and leave a side seam gap for later. Can you see what I’ve done? The crosswise pins act as my reminder to leave a gap.
Collar and facings
Preparing the collar and facings starts off lovely, then becomes messy, then is lovely again.
Then I added a trim along the facing edge that joins the lining. This is not part of the instructions. This is my ‘take’ on making jackets.
This story does have a collar and lining happy ending. It’s neat and clean.
Here’s how the collar with lining now sits nicely. The black trim worked too.
I found some Craftsy writers that have some good information to keep in mind when you’re at this stage.
- The beauty of understitching facings by Linda Reynolds on Craftsy.
- Andrea Brown on Craftsy shows how to sew a double welt pockets the way Roberta taught me years ago when she used to teach at the Sydney McCalls warehouse.
If you’ve already made the buttonholes, these pockets will be a breeze to sew.
Here are you pocket pieces ready to work with.
Mark the pocket with the pocket template.
I’ve then stitched around the pocket markings. Here’s the front view.
Pin the pocket pieces to the coat and pin down the full pieces so they don’t slide under and get caught up when sewing. I’ve had this happen to me before. #sadface.
If there’s a bit that wasn’t sewn on properly, I’ll resew this piece. No unpicking necessary.
Then I cut the fabric and pull through the pocket pieces.
This bit is fiddly so I’ve used the diagram so you can see that you capture the cut ends and sew them flat to the pocket pieces before you finish sewing the pocket bag.
And that’s it for making welt pockets with the welt piece machine sewn onto the coat.
Jackie has raglan sleeves and I still need to make a roll shoulder adjustment so let me show you how.
Recommended Interfacing for Jackie Coat
Lena/Iconic Patterns – Pattern Hack! Patch Pockets plus tutorial for patch pockets
Pattern Hack! Lengthening the Sleeves*
Pattern Hack! Lengthening the Coat*
Pattern Hack! Changing to centre front opening and adjusting collar points
Matching interfacing to your fabric. (this post is important to make sure your interfacing is not too heavy for Jackie)
If you’ve printed your pattern and are trying to figure out what size to choose, there are a couple of reality check things you can do before you decide to pick your size.
Threads has a good article about picking your size.
Grading across patterns
Jackie is a multi size pattern. This gives you the lines you need to grade your sizes. This gives you and easy way to grade your jacket to fit you – ‘grading 101’ if you like.
|This is all the grading I needed. Size 8 at bust and size 10 at hips.
What size do you think you’ll need?
If you already know how to print pdf patterns, ignore this post.
The jacket construction posts are next so stay tuned.
Did I hear you say ‘I don’t use pdf patterns’?
If you did, this post might help you realise pdf pattern are a fast way of getting the pattern you love right now.
You know you want to. But you may have had a bad experience. Am I right?
Iconic pdf facts
Here are three pdf pattern facts about Iconic patterns.
- If you decide to use the print shop version, Iconic Patterns can be printed on 36″ (91 cm) wide paper.
- You can use A4 or US Letter size paper to print your Iconic Pattern at home.
- The sewing instructions are part of the pdf and there are additional instructions on the Iconic Pattern website.
PDF patterns will have a test square for you to check your printer settings are correct.
Lena has already written a neat post about printing pdf patterns.
Check the version
If you decide to print this pattern at home, make sure it’s the latest version. So if you have a pdf pattern in your pattern stash and you’re not sure it’s the latest version, check with the pattern designer. Send them an email. Am I right Gabrielle?
Print the pages with no scaling
Tiled patterns are printed with either ‘no scaling’ or at ‘100%’. I always choose ‘no scaling’ when I print so I know the version I printed pattern is not changed.
Don’t print from the skydrive or cloud
That’s what I did thinking this would be faster than downloading the pdf file to the computer and than printing it using Adobe Reader.
When I printed the pdf pattern from the sky drive, the pages didn’t print off correctly. Bits were missing. The pattern tiles were not complete or to scale.
|This was printed from the sky drive – wrong.|
Then I tried again by printing the pdf using Adobe Reader. The pages were perfect.
Leave the borders on your pattern pieces.
Iconic patterns line up nicely with the border lines left on each piece.
To keep your master pattern firm, have at least one side overlap so the paper pieces are stable to use again and again.
I cut the border off the pattern pieces in sets of 5 and they looked too small. That was a disaster waiting to happen. There are no tile matching notches on Iconic patterns so you’ll need to leave the page borders on each page to make sure each tile lines up correctly.
Read this if this is your first crack at pattern downloads using a pdf file
1. Open the PDF file.
If you can’t find the pdf you downloaded, check your hard drive ‘downloads’ drive.
Still can’t find it? Search ‘1501’ in your file search field. 1501 is the name in all three pdfs for Jackie.
2. Page through until you are viewing page 12 with the test square.
Print this page off first and check the test square dimensions. If they are wrong, try changing the printer setting page settings to ‘none’.
3. Start the printing process by pressing Control +P or go to File, then select print.
4. To print only the test page, in the Print Range box, click the radio button to select Current Page (the page you are currently viewing). Note that you can use various settings in the Print Range box to control which pages to print.
5. In the Page Handling box, use the Page Scaling drop-down list and select None. (In my experience, this is usually the correct Page Handling setting for printing PDF patterns.)
6. Click the OK button to print the test page.
7. Measure the test box on the printed test page. If it’s the right size, then use None as the Page Handling setting when you print the entire PDF file. .
Others who have good printing pdf patterns posts are: