Guipure brilliance

This has been my guipure lace year and it’s all because of the guipure lace skirt workshop I did in Brisbane with Susan Khalje.

Front dress finished

This little royal blue green version was all bought from Selective Fine Fabrics before I did Susan’s lace skirt workshop in March.

Back dress finished

The colours in these fabrics were too brilliant to pass.

This is the ‘almost’ finished front neckline. I harvested lace to complete the blue space.

I’ve used New Look 6000 to showcase this lace and its colour brilliance.

I did a fair amount of thread tracing to keep the lace in alignment horizontally and vertically.

Below is what thread tracing and hand stitching the lace to the fabric looks like.
This view shows the hand picked centre back zipper up close.
My original idea was to have a solid blue centre back but it would have taken away from the lace.

The lace design was too large to have a solid blue centre back.
What you see above is the centre back where the lace doesn’t quite meet up, so I had to ‘harvest’ pieces of lace to cover the blue trail.
This has the harvested lace to cover the blue spacing.
This side view shows you how I had to piece the lace to it flowed over my hips.
Here’s a close up of the hips lace shaping process.
Lots of pins and my trusty Prym shoulder ham helped.
I started this dress in April and I’ve been working on it while finishing off other projects. What I have realised is having breaks from this dress has helped me understand the lace pattern and have been able to make it work on this dress.

Slow sewing is worth it when it’s a gorgeous silk piece with amazing lace.

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Quick guipure update

Yesterday I did a quick rework on this guipure lace dress.
The added lace on the skirt part of this dress.

Awkward pose

The based of the dress now has a layer of guipure – more rambling rose garden that works based on the flowers in this lace.

For the purposes of the PR lace contest, valid entries must have 75% lace. This dress now qualifies for the contest.

Phew!

Rambling rose garden guipure

Guipure lace sewing and jigsaw puzzles take time to complete but they’re fun to work on. 

Making guipure lace fit you is like putting the pieces of a puzzle together and this dress was the same.

Today I released the front darts and unstitched the lining from the hem.

I used New Look 6000 for this project because this dress fits and is easy to tweak into place when I need to change the size.

I had some key battles with the fashion fabric let alone placing the guipure lace in a way that’s balanced. Guipure lace needs to be placed so it runs continuously horizontally and vertically.

Front view of rambling rose garden
I’m pleased this dress has worked out and the flowers placement is balanced.

The fashion fabric is a light-weight stretch woven but it was the perfect base fabric for this lace.

Back bodice closeup

Pitt Trading was kind enough to provide me with the fabrics and notions I needed for this dress.

The lining is a firm poplin as is the underlayer of the fashion fabric.

Today I unpicked the lining off the hem and released the back darts.

Together with the lace, this dress has 4 layers of fabric and it took a lot of time to keep each layer together.

You can kinda see the poplin underlayer beneath the fashion fabric.

This work in progress shot shows you a lot about placing the lace.

All the lace is hand sewn onto the fashion fabric.

I’m attempting to hand pick the zipper in.
The constant shifting of the fashion fabric made me decide to hand pick the zipper in place. This was the most secure way to sew in the zipper.
Sewing in the zipper and hand stitching the lace did get very scary at times dealing with a number of fluid layers of fabric. The fabric layers were also hand basted together so this was challenging.
One of the contest criteria was to make a project that reflects your skills so I’m hoping that the fact that I’ve used couture sewing techniques fulfils this component of the contest.
I used the sleeves to add more lace but in a rambling way. I’ve used the grey flowers for most of the sleeve.

There’s a lace contest on Pattern Review that I made this dress so it requires 75% lace component so this was my way of meeting that criteria while keeping this dress interesting.
There was a number of nights when I would just put this project to one side because the lace puzzle pieces were doing my head in,
At one point I was contemplating applying lace to this felt hat but right now my fingers are worn out from hand sewing guipure lace to the dress.
Would I sew with guipure lace again? In a heart beat.
I have one WIP Summer lace dress that I put aside to work on this dress for the Pattern Review lace contest.

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Simply couture

Do you ever wonder…can I really make this on my own? After attending such an intensive workshop, I wondered if I could still use my new couture skills without Susan Khalje’s being there. This month’s Minerva Crafts project has shown me that I can.

When I initially ordered this lovely guipure lace, I ordered extra for another project but I wasn’t sure what the project would be. This strapless cocktail dress was my project of choice.

The bodice uses the foundation bodice from my February cocktail dress (Vogue 1174).

Double checking the lace for this dress.
The skirt is the one I used in my March project (Simplicity1460).
This guipure lace is woven with a lovely curved border and I again used scalloped border on the skirt hem.
Work in progress view from the front
Work in progress lace from the back
For this project, I cut into the lace across the top of the bodice for more wow.
Bodice lace work in progress
Getting the dimensions right is all in the prep work for this little cocktail number.
Overlaying the lace to finish the centre back seam evenly
Once I had placed the lace onto the dress, I was a bit disappointed that the flowers pointed down however the flower base points were balanced well across the bodice so I took advantage of this and cut into the lace for a more striking bodice edge.
Stepping out with the finished dress

Couture tools

These Prym tools really keep my sewing more accurate and looking more refined that I’ve done in the past. Prym’s red dot tools are ergonomically designed and the Prym Love range are just as well designed and very easy to find when you’re in the ‘throes of sewing up a storm’.

Using all the tools for a better finish
Prep work and Netflix
On both the front bodice and front skirt, I thread-basted the centre front seam. This made aligning the lace work more accurate and helped balance the lace features of this dress.

From my experience you need at least two boxes of pins to secure this type of lace onto your base fabric.

The back of this dress has the full lace across the bodice.

There’s a lot of lace hand sewing to reduce the shadowing that happens when you layer lace over satin. Believe me when I say there’s loads of applique stitching that took a good day to complete. It was during this time that Netflix became my BFF.

Foundation bodice
After making my February cocktail dress I decided to add a nicer looking foundation piece. One side of this foundation bodice is calico with 5cm seam allowances for the boning. The side you can see uses the lining fabric so the inside is a lovely as the outside of the dress.
The internal bodice reading for a different dress
It turns out that as awesome as this foundation piece is, the dress was fitted to me without the foundation piece so after diligently hand sewing this to the dress, I couldn’t close the zipper so I had to take out the foundation bodice. No great loss. I can still use this for a future dress, but I’ll build the dress around the foundation bodice.

Getting help

Now this is the part I needed an expert to check how well the dress fit on me. I went to Bobbin & Ink and the lovely Juliet checked the dress fit and we discovered I needed to add a bit of room at the zipper waist.
When I rechecked my toile pattern pieces, I had the adjusted seam line drawn in a lighter colour, hence this adjustment was the same as I had done in February.
hand finishing the zipper
Fit basics

If I was taller then I would wear clothes that have more flow and drape. However, I just don’t have the height or shape to wear lots of drape and feel confident. I always admire others who can wear clothes with lots of drape but at the end of the day, they don’t work for me.

The fit of the bodice is quite firm so while there’s no boning in the seam, the four layers of fabric keep this dress in place. It doesn’t slip and slide and the dress is very heavy.

I will add the boning to the seams later this month because I don’t think I could wear this with confidence without boning.
Conclusion

Couture sewing takes time and I’m really enjoying it. I prefer not to hand stitch but when the results are this good, I’d be kicking myself to not use my couture sewing skills more often.

The final results are so satisfying. Taking the to make special outfits will make it easier to agree to more formal functions in the future because I now have some really lovely outfits that I’ve made with the help of Minerva Crafts fabric and notion range.

Couture sewing part 2

Here’s the finished guipure lace skirt I made at Susan Khalje’s 3 day guipure lace skirt workshop in Brisbane using fabric from Minerva Crafts. I’m now hooked on making anything ‘guipure’.

While this project is a bit formal I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to learn more skills. Now I’m thinking of more ‘urban’ ways to use guipure lace.

Any straight skirt pattern can be used for a guipure skirt so I used Simplicity 1460. Tapered skirts are my fav but I had to learn about shaping lace first at the waist before attempting shaping lace at the hem as well ie learn to walk before you learn to run.


Can I just say that it doesn’t matter what your skill level is, everyone at this workshop created a guipure lace skirt and used a straight skirt pattern that worked for them. Please don’t think you have to be super skilled to do this type of sewing. You only need to be open-minded and patient with yourself. Everyone in the class was really focused but also amazed they could learn these skills and build on their existing skills. That’s enough encouragement to try new skills from me for now.

What I learnt
I enjoyed seeing how Susan worked on everyone else’s skirts to get a better fit, including getting a better fit for my skirt.
Jigsaw puzzles have always been a favourite past time of mine so watching Susan piece guipure lace to get your body shaping was mesmerising.

Sewing a hand -picked zipper takes very little time so I’m sold on this technique. Applying an inner grosgrain waist facing is really only limited by the Petersham tape you use.


Fabric
I picked these fabrics from the website. I didn’t get samples beforehand and I was really pleased with these choices.

The descriptions on Minerva Crafts website and their photography are spot on. I’m happy with my website choices when the fabric arrives at my door step.


Packaging
Vicki now processes the Network Blogger orders through their normal order system and the beauty of this is you get to see the name of who packed each part of your order. It’s amazing to see how many people are involved in their packaging/mail service. I’ve always loved the personal side of Minerva Crafts and it just keeps getting better. Thanks guys.

Guipure lace
The course specified guipure and when I put guipure in the search criteria on their website, it brought up 11 types of guipure fabric options. The range of colours are extensive and the quality is exactly what I needed for this workshop.


I chose this awesome purple because it’s a strong colour, scalloped on both sides and special. It looks special and flattering. You only need to purchase your length plus 10cm of this guipure lace for a skirt.

Guipure lace is tightly sewn together. This means you can safely cut out lace motifs by snipping through the lace connectors and place the motifs where you want. These lace motifs they don’t fray. That’s the lace quality you need.

Lace underlayer 

The skirt required a contrasting colour as the under layer fabric. You can use a matching colour but the lacework won’t show up (pop) as well as a when you use contrasting base fabric.

I used this pearl white colour against the guipure lace. I could have used a warmer pale colour to add more impact to the purple guipure lace. There are so many options you can decide upon, it’s all based on your preferences.

Underlining

This skirt also uses calico or a reasonably-bodied cotton batiste as an underlining. The underlining is worthwhile doing as it helps the skirt hold its shape with guipure lace. Guipure lace is heavy and it needs a few strong layers so it doesn’t bag or sag.

Lining
A silk crepe de chine or similar measured the same length as the lace. I used an everyday lining so I could get used to the couture steps. This lining matched the petersham tape I bought.
You can see the Petersham tape and lining match.

Notions

The detailing involved in creating this skirt requires a select few notions.
2.5cm wide grosgrain ribbon enough for the waist facing plus 10cm. The grosgrain ribbon should have the curved edges so you can shape it for your waistband.
A medium hook and eye is needed for the waistband. The grosgrain is used to cover up as much of the metal on the hook and eye as possible.
I used three thread colours for this skirt. White for the underlining. Purple for the lace and a coffee colour thread for the lining and waistband finishes.

The other tools I needed were long hand sewing needles, a ham, small very sharp scissors and large shears which I was able to use my Prym products for.

I used my Prym pins, shears and measuring tools for better accuracy.

Day one

We fitted our skirt toiles. As with the previous workshop, the stitching lines were marked with carbon paper and machine stitched in a contrasting thread on calico. I machine basted the seams using another contrasting thread and long stitches.


Susan checked the fit of our toiles and I made the initial adjustments to the toile. The new stitching lines were hand basted to the toile.

We used this adjusted toile to cut out the fashion fabric and I marked the stitching lines on this with carbon tracing paper and then hand basted these lines.


Day two
A nail-biting day as we had to cut out our guipure lace.

An important part of this process was to mark (hand baste) the hip line on the fashion fabric. This line was critical to align our lace and help keep the skirt flat as initially thread basted the lace in one piece, across the width of the skirt.

A lot of time was spent hand basting the lace to the skirt so the lace didn’t create shadows.


Day three
We were all in a tizz doing our best to finish our skirts. There was an air of excitement among us all day even though we felt shattered in a happy way, to have achieved so much.
This shows the lace shaping I did for my waistline

Post workshop

Three days after the workshop I finally sat down and got my act into gear to finish this skirt. I still had to piece the lace up the centre back seam so it looked seamless. I also needed to:
– Fuse part of the skirt front to stop it from bagging
– hand stitch more parts of the lace to avoid shadowing
– stitch press studs (snap) on the lace overlay covering the zipper
– resew the waistband grosgrain at the darts and seams in the same colour thread
– remove basting threads
– hand sew the lining to the skirt with a jump pleat
– sew on the hook and eye.
This took 5 hours to complete with breaks in between. Walking away from an intense project like this is a good way to pull away from the detail and assess if you’re getting the overall effect you want. 
Doing this work at home, means I still needed to do my share of the housework but I could duck into the Craftsy course to relook at Susan’s part of the workshop I had to finish.
Blouse
Oh. Did I mention I made this blouse too?
I couldn’t not use the underlayer silk and not have a Summer blouse to wear with this skirt.
I used Cynthia Rowley view D Simplicity 2215, from a previous Minerva Crafts project.
The collar has a lace overlay. It’s really light-weight lace and was in my stash. I decided this would negate the need to wear earrings.
This skirt and blouse is now part of a cocktail capsule that I’ve made. The jacket is one of my first Minerva Craft makes from 2012.
I wore this outfit to a wedding dinner with friends on a hot humid night and I felt great.

Don’t forget to use the discount code ‘maria’ when you purchase any Prym products from Minerva Crafts website.
Now to research some more guipure projects!

Lace work to date

The past week has been all about guipure lace – buying it, planning a skirt/dress with it, manipulating it for shape, placing it on a garment for the ‘wow’ you want. 

In the past I’ve used various laces and fine fabrics.

This peplum top made in 2015 uses a sequinned lace provided my Minerva Crafts UK.

The original version of this fabric was used for a gold dress I wore to the Minerva meetup a few years ago.
The key to making this fabric more wearable was to interline the fabric and then line it.

This top also uses a knit mesh with lace detailing made last year. For this top I only underlined the front and back bodices.

This dress made in 2014 was a remnant lace that was lined and not interlined. Quick and easy especially as I used my block pattern.

Lace comes into it’s own when you use such small pieces for bras.

 This off-white bra using pin up girls pattern wasn’t underlined

This gold bra has a light underlining.

While this dress using fabric from Selective Fine Fabrics uses a printed cutout fabric, I still had to interline it. When I bought it last year, Louisa spent time with me testing the fabric with a number of coloured poplins to find the best underlining that would still let the colours in this print pop. White underlining was the best version.

This crazy print used a bone coloured lace along the shoulders. The fit was good but I’ve since passed this dress onto someone else.

I really enjoyed blending this green Chantilly lace over blue fabric that I bought from Pitt Trading.

There’s a lot less flower placement to worry about with such a delicate lace.

Oh my goodness. in 2013 I used a corded lace on this Beatrice dress by Sew Chic patterns and tried to keep the shaped hem on the skirt and sleeves. The fit was this dress needed more work but it was worth making because it has an unusual neckline.

Navy lace pieced over satin from a design I saw on Pinterest was the inspiration for this navy lace dress using fabric from White Tree Fabrics two years ago.

 I still wear this skirt that has a few layers of fabric to make it the colour I wanted.

Both the lace and underlining fabrics had colours that I would look great in. Pairing them together resulted in a more wearable skirt.

Seriously even the lining is a bit loud, but really suited this skirt.

Lastly I’ll show you this skull lace from Minerva Crafts from a year ago.

It’s a mesh knit and I really loved the fact it has a skull pattern and not florals.


That’s my working with lace history and now I’ve cracked working with guipure lace through Susan Khalje’s workshop so you’ll see more about this in the coming weeks.