Pattern drafting basics

For 6 weeks on Thursday nights after work I attended a pattern-making workshop and loved it. Yep. Local community colleges are gems for learning from industry experts.
Can you tell that I’ve finished my work studies yet? Got the certificates in their frames.

Below is a simple cowl neckline top drafted using a basic block bodice. I drafted every aspect of this top. Bodice, cap sleeves and peplum.

Dear niece #1 took these photos for me (big hug). The fabric was bought in Vanuatu a few years ago and it’s pure cotton so it’s a bit stiff. Inside the cowl neckline I’ve sewn in a big button so the cowl neck fold nicely to form a V. Littlest niece #2 was gobsmacked when I told her about the button inside the top. She refers to as the creative Aunty. And she gave me her Christmas make wish – make her a toy puppy. Who could say No to her? Not me.

The shorts are RTW but I now have a trouser block and the knowledge to draft shorts. Any shorts. Summer is here too so I’ll plunge into the stash and find an appropriate piece of fabric soon enough to test out a me-made shorts pattern (she says breathing deeply).

This is my second test top placing the front piece on bias. This time I sewed the cowl to the centre front seam.

The cowl forms a soft v-neckline and it’s cool to wear. Kirsty, I’m wearing RTW jeans too:)
Scary side view above. This pattern works well with an invisible zip down the centre back seam, so I have the self-drafted cowl top with the shaping I wanted. I wore it at our Melbourne meet up and didn’t catch any food crumbs.

I love commercial pattern as much as Peter of MPB. Confession: I caved and bought Grainline’s Maritime shorts pattern at Jen’s recent sale 🙂

What I am finding is more confidence to use any pattern knowing I can redraft pattern parts if I need to make it fit better. That’s what it’s all about for me. If I can make a pattern fit me, I can do the same for my family.

A much better trouser drafting write up
Cation Designs recently did a much more extensive trouser pattern drafting and a trouser fitting workshop at Canada’s College Fashion department. Go and read about her full-on learning experience. Her posts are extensive and worth reading if you’re in the midst of your own trouser making journey.

Thank you
… for continuing reading my blog posts.
I know there’s a problem with blogger comments on mobile phone. I’ve tested a few blogger blog comments and experienced the same problem.
The solution on blogger hasn’t worked and I’ve failed twice to install disqus. I’m planning to move across to wordpress – when I have done plenty more research and get enough courage and patience to press the ‘go’ button. Fingers crossed!
 I would have said ‘wish me luck but … oh blogger 😦

Peppy eyelet

I just couldn’t get on with my current projects until I gave this pattern another go. Peplums are everywhere and I have a summer holiday coming up in June so I made this top again in a white/purple eyelet from My Hung Fabrics to wear during the day with shorts or skinny jeans.

The adjustments this time were
– reduce the bust darts and centre back darts by 1.5cm
– add 1.5cm at centre seams on peplum, so the flounce is untounched
– drop the neckline and fix gaposis
– redraw the base of the cap sleeve.

And the neckline is now a v-neck.
Here’s the redrawn sleeve pattern. I took more off the sleeve length at the base on the sleeve, using a french curve. The peplum is still 2″ shorter than the pattern.

There’s a row of purple piping on the edge of the cap sleeve. The sleeves are lined. Bias binding is used to finish the neck edge, hem, zipper seams and sleeve edges. I’ll be wearing this as you would a basic white top.

I have visions of using this pattern for a casual jacket but for now, I have to get back to my planned project commitments in between cleaning the house. I know – both situations are sad:)

School teachers always tell you to sit up straight.

 

Enjoying a few rays before more cleaning.

PS: I’m ignoring the fact that ‘winter is coming‘. Can you tell I’ve been watching Game of Thrones recently? Love it.

The Great British Sewing Bee episode 4.
Congratulations to the finalists. You lucky sewers in the UK can put your hand up to be part of series 2.

UFO shirt – McCalls 5433

Sharon’s rust shirtmaker dress made a strong impression on me because she always does excellent finishing and she’s got a great eye for detail. Her dress is really well made and fits her perfectly. Anyway, she inspired me to pay more attention to my sewing so at the last Rhodes Guild session I cut out a shirt length style with the aim to lift my game. I got to the point of adding the collar and put it aside do to Mum’s sewing.

This weekend I made time to work on it a bit at a time, and not rush into it. DH was helpful in deciding what buttons to add to the shirt. First time! Anyway, I wanted a cap sleeve, so I took the sleeve from B5328.
Here’s how my shirt turned out. I do like the fabric contrasts. The skirt was made earlier this year and it’s become a work staple.
The front and back pieces are lined because of the embroidered cut out bits in the fabric. The lining is a lightweight poplin. I’ve used this for the front and back pieces, collar band and button front.

 
The back needs more adjusting and the black buttons were from a Lincraft sales years ago. 

This shows the french seams, bias sleeve finish and the lining effect on the inside.

Butterick 5328 complete

Here’s what I discovered when I made the gathers on the bust, as suggested by the pattern. When I tried it on, I felt stupid to have such a lot of gathers on my bust. Then I decided to use a trim to deflect the gathers at the bust.
After sleeping on the idea over the weekend, I extended the bust gathers and voila, it felt more comfortable and it overcame the neckline gaps that appear, when you least expect it.

After adjusting the hem, prior to cutting out the fabric, there was no additional hemming required. This is also one of those patterns that allows you to keep creating, without stopping ie for zippers, buttons etc.
I have a couple of quilting fabrics that I’m thinking of using for the next version of this shirt/top.

Butterick 5328 – pattern testing

Here’s what I’m working on (the top, not the attitude) but with a normal collar.

Here’s the extent of my adjustments for this pattern. The front hem has been raised to cater for my height (he he).

The back has been adjusted for my height, sway back and hip room to move. The fabric has no give (woven) so I’ve plan built in the comfort.
More to come…