Revisiting Burda 7746 trousers

Do you ever wonder if you should reuse a pattern again that worked for you when you were a different size? 

That’s what I did for this month’s Minerva Crafts project with Burda 7746 in a poly/viscose/wool blend fabric.

When I first made this pattern, I trialed it and then made it 2 more pairs of trousers. Over the years these pairs of trousers have been my ‘go-to’ work trousers and they’re now looking very well worn.

In February I had Susan Khalje recheck the fit of the 12 size and I added 2cm at the waist and graded it to zero at my hips at the side seams.

Because I added this to the side seams, I also added 1cm at the pocket opening so the pocket placement still looks balanced.

The beauty of this pattern is the pocket bag has a dart that ensures the pocket curves at the right spot. The top of the pocket is also sewn closed so again, the pocket sits flat and it doesn’t look like ‘elephant ears’ on your hips.

I made a wearable pair in a navy medium weight fabric from the calico pattern and added the changes. This was worth doing for two reasons. Firstly, to make sure the fitting changes worked and were not ‘lost in translation’.

Secondly, this gave me the opportunity to follow the instructions without fear of ruining the ‘good’ fabric.

By the time I made this pair, the additional challenge was to add lining to these trousers.

In a previous Minerva Crafts project, I ordered extra jacquard lining and there was enough left to partially line these trousers. It helps the trousers wear longer and feel lighter too.


When I’ve added lining to trousers before I’ve machine sewed the lining onto the trousers before sewing on the waistband. This time I hand sewed on the lining after finishing off the waistband.


I did use some thread basting to sew the zipper into these trousers.

Thread basting, like machine basting, helped get the zipper sewn in more accurately.


One handy tool that made this project more accurate was using this Prym chalk pen. It really does right like a pen and kept my sewing accurate.

Now to make another pair so I can replace the original trousers I made so long ago.


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At work

MMM13 days 14-16 were work days and it’s cooler here so the jackets come out to play.

Jeanne and Megan took these photos for me.

Day 14:
Me-made Jacket made a long time ago and was too long so I cut it shorter.
Me-made Shirt: butterick 4985.
Me-made Skirt Aline skirt not blogged. The bias trim was added to hide the overlocking on the hem – doh.

Day 15 the head cold starts:
Me-made Jacket McCalls 4596.
Me-madeTop: Vogue 2980. I adjusted this top for fit last year.
Me-madeTrousers Burda 7746 lined trousers. They make me feel snuggly.

Day 16 persistant head cold:
Me-madeJacket Vogue 7764 This jacket had a lot of detailing.
Me-madeTop: Kwik Sew 2683 in grey not blogged.
Me-madeTrousers McCalls 2874 grey trousers.

Day 16 pic is my way of saying Bonjour to Vero. Vero launched her online bag patterns Sacotin today and I helped her with the English translations. She’s based in a small village in France and we had fun liaising online and I learnt a funny lesson to not rely on online translations. I was the one ‘Lost in translation’. Vero has a great sense of humour.

Weekend version

This is the final lined trousers for winter. This is a weekend version and I bought this fabric from Pitt Trading to play with plaid. Luckily this fabric is over painted (distressed) so these trousers are more for weekend wear.



I love the Jalie scarf collar top.
The fabric is extremely stiff so I’ve cut more out of the centre back seam and made the belt loops 2.5 cm longer than the pervious belt loops. Here are the work versions.

Here’s a close up shot of the fabric. It’s a plaid/houndstooth woven with over painting to look distressed.

Lovin’ lined trousers – Burda 7746

So now I have a cotton navy trousers that are lined and will be better for general office wear. The fabric is from Pitt Trading and I’ve used sunsilky lining. Thanks to Sheila ctk for the hook and eye kits I’ve used on these trousers. I won these through a giveway she ran earlier this year. I still have fabric courtesy of Sheila ctk that I need to make up – soon.

I made this top (Kwik Sew 2694) earlier this year.

After wearing these to work, I’ve now added belt loops so these trousers sit better on me.

I do enjoy the 1960’s Batman camera angle.

The pockets on the first pair stretched so I’ve interfaced the pocket edges and they sit very nicely now. Here’s the interfacing I’ve used on the scratchy woollen pair that I’m making up since finishing the navy pair. I tend to make things twice so I know I didn’t fluke the first version. And I  embed the construction steps in my head.

I didn’t have enough fabric for the pocket bag pieces so I’ve placed a piece of the woollen fabric on the piece that will show. The rest of the pocket bag pieces are made from sunsilky lining.

This dark flecky woollen pair is made from a Cue remnant that I bought from Pitt Trading last year. The weather reports were warning about the coming cold chill so I decided these trousers needed to be worn now.

The woollen pair are scratchy and the Sunsilky lining is the perfect solution. 

I made this top earlier last year and because it’s a bit wide, I’ve worn a belt to keep it sitting right.

 It was a no-brainer to add belt loops after finishing the navy trousers.

I’ll adjust the back hem so they don’t bag at the back. I have one more pair in the pipeline.

Here’s another close up shot of the woollen fabric.

Nature strip

20 metres down the block is a bit of nature, so that’s where today’s MMM12 pic was taken.

Jacket: Simplicity 4698. I’ve reviewed this in pink.
Top: McCalls 8777. I no longer use a neckline facing. I turn the neck edge over and finish it with a straight stitch.
Pants: Burda 7746. I have to make 2 more of these pants (lined).
I’ve slowing built purple into my wardrobe but I never thought to team it with taupe. This was one of the few jackets in my wardrobe that doesn’t need altering. Most of my jackets do so I’ll be altering clothes while planning my next new projects.
What I have realised is after sewing for so long, we now have access to so many new independent sewing patterns that ever. My wardrobe is full of the big 4 and Burda so I’m slowly acquiring more independent sewing patterns, even patterns for bags.
If that isn’t a hint about what’s in the sewing pipeline…

Burda 7746 – workwear

Burda has edgier styles than BMV patterns; I like these pockets on this style; and I need work pants that fit well at the back. This pair will be part of my one pattern, one week challenge. I love the style and I have a couple of fabrics in my stash that will be great for work and on the weekend, so I’m hoping none of these will be wardrobe orphans and one pair may be vintage looking. You never know.

Last year I tested a range of pants to get my skills up and have pants that worked. The back was the usally my challenge so now I want to take my skills up another level – whatever that means. When I did my research on PR I found that Mushywear had done a great looking pair so I must be on the right track. She has such great style.

 

I’ve used a linen woven and the pocket lining has a similar light weight poly fabric in a similar colour. The initial adjustments were:

– Increasing back leg width by 2 cm and tapered from top to 6 cm
– Increased back crotch by 2cm.

The blue pen shows the back leg width extension. The pencil shows the extended back crotch curve.

On the weekend Angie checked the fit and I resewed the side seams out by 1/2cm.

This adjustment is now on the pattern and I’m really pleased with these so I’ll definitely make these again. I love the square long line pocket style. By the way, the front waistband met this time ’round.
A closer look at the long angular pocket style. The pocket line will lie flatter with twill tape or interfacing.
I have some work jackets that need matching pants so I’ll use this again. When I do this in winter weight fabric, I’ll increase the size so that I can adjustment them for the heavier fabric weight.
Here’s a Burda skinny jeans version to try.