Puffer jacket

My puffer jacket fabric is from Elliot Berman Textiles, bought at least 2 years since my last NYC visit. I was freezing this week so I decided I needed to make this jacket pronto.

Eugenia and her staff at Elliott Berman Textiles were really accommodating when I visited their store. I visited their store twice that week as I had to think about their fabrics and choose pieces I can’t buy locally. This is one of a few of their fabrics in my stash.

The key notion I needed was the zipper and thankfully Pitt Trading had a range of metal zippers for coats available last year. Pitt Trading has an amazing range of notions off loaded from local designers. 

I did a bit of research while I made this jacket this week and realised very few puffer jackets have a defined waist hence I had to choose a jacket pattern that I could slightly shape. 

I used Butterick 6062 as the basic jacket shape. The darts weren’t sewn. I have a habit of using this pattern for longline coats to keep me warm.

The pocket is the same as the pocket in Butterick 6062 but it’s 2.5cm wider along the seams.

I used the scissor magnet to cut the pocket to size.

The collar is 12cm wide shaped from folded piece of the quilted fabric. No collar pattern was used.

A few months ago I ducked into EM Greenfields and bought a reel of navy bias binding 25mm wide for the jacket edging. I’ve got plenty left although I did used plenty on this jacket.

While I love the metal zipper, I felt it needed a zipper shield so I made one ‘on the go’.

The fabric wasn’t going through my sewing machine properly so I lowered the zipper foot to ‘level 3’ and it then sewed through the machine perfectly.

The initial WIP jacket showed me the pockets were too high for a coat. Uhm, the front was too short as well.

You can see on the finished jacket a new ‘design feature ‘at the base of the coat.

I had a similar gold bias trim in my stash so I used this for the coat hook and also to finish the front panel seams.

And that’s it really. Bias bound seams and bias bound edges and this puffer jacket is done!

Now to rug up and get rid of my head cold before it turns nasty.

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Vanuatu wrap up

We spent 6 great days in Vanuatu and chilled out, escaping a week of winter cold.
The nice thing was I got to just sit and read, a pleasure I don’t get at home. We did snorkel around a couple of reefs, kiyaked and relaxed just a bit. I did buy a few metres of fabrics in great dark summer prints so they are now maturing in my fabric stash.
These pants Butterick 5044 were finished in time for our trip. I am mozzie chocolate so I needed pants to avoid being eaten at night. The good thing was mozzies were not an issue. They usually are in tropical countries, so I was one happy tourist.

I did a slight adjustment by raising lowering the front waistline and raised the centre back waist line. I also slivered the pants width at the ankles. The pants width seemed overwhelming so I had to trim the width down. I also added a small vent at the ankles but you can’t really tell from these pics.

Since coming home I’ve been working on the anorak McCalls 5635 and today I finished it, with advice from my sewing buddies. Alison gave me a lesson applying a couple of long prong snaps from the Snap source, on the sleeve hems.
I combined views B and C, so I have the collar and hoodie for a challenge. You can also see that I used a chunky plastic zip and cord. I hand stitched the zipper in before machining it in, so that it wouldn’t slide around, if I just used pins.

I also used satin bias on the waist for the cord. I cut this as a size 11, so I cut between size 10 and 12. All seams are overlocked. I now need some beads for the cord ends. I’ll use fraycheck to keep the cord ends from unravelling.

By the way, I won’t be wearing the matching pants and jacket unless I want to upset the fashion police. My laptop was fixed today so there will be more posts, more often.
These were taken on our only boat trip at Vanuatu. The boardies were good while walking on Tranquility Island and checking out the turtle sanctuary.
The swimmers did well when were snorkelling.
Yes – no hairdryer.

Fitting B5333

The shiny woven purple fabric is again being used as the toile for this top. This fabric is light weight and has no stretch.

I like the design fit of this top and it can be extended to become a dress. This is a really neat feature that I just love. This picture was my first sneak peek at how the pieces fit together to form the front.

I spent a couple of hours adjusting this pattern while we were away a few weeks ago. So the technical adjustments include:

– sway back adjustment
– dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
– full bust adjustment – c cup
– roll shoulder (2 cm)
– waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist
– dropped the upper body piece by 2 cm to take the midriff seam line under my bust.

The photo below shows where the side zip goes. I’ve used pins at this stage.

These first photos show where my way of checking that the single layer actually fit on me. At this point it does fit me but needed some tweaking at the midriff. I had a bit too much in the front skirt piece so I positioned a couple of pleats to match the bust point dart. The darts were side bust darts were also 2cm too high (doh) and needed to be shorter by 2.5cm.
Here’s where I should have stopped. I pinched out some fabric from the front midriff where the bust points are to make the waist fit better – ahh. I now need to do this top again, however, that’s why it’s a toile.

I didn’t follow the pattern neckline finish because I was testing out the fit of this top. I will follow the neckline finish for the next attempt.

This top does feel comfortable especially with the lined upper top and midriff piece. I have now brought the shoulder line closer to my neck because they felt like they were about to slip off my shoulders. I’ve also lowered the armhole so it eliminates the lines and doesn’t look like it’s cutting into my arm. As you can see, I don’t have Michelle Obama’s arms.

The bias binding was used to bring out the purple in the fabric. I’ve finished this toile and it’s going to be a weekend top.

I need buttons – Butterick 5046

Here’s my toile and as you can tell, it needs a couple of buttons on the waistband as well as a hook at the cross over point.

Technical stuff:
  • Lowered the waist line by 5cm
  • Did a full bust adjustment and then dropped the bust point on the fabric by 2.5cm (gravity)
  • Took out 4cm from the centre back, as you can see below.
  • Slivered out 2cm from the back sleeve hem (gaposis). I’ll use soft gathers next time.
  • I used used the foot D on my Janome to roll hem for quite a few finishes.

I added the purple bias to bring out the purple colour as the fabric is a big grey with the silver. The fabric is more suitable for a western hoe down outfit but I thought this top would work with dark skinny jeans, and it does. Once I get the buttons done, I’ll post up a final pic.
I’ve already found another fabric in my stash to work this top into a dress – yeah!
This morning I did a very hilly training ride and covered 68km. The road surface and the traffic coming home were my biggest hurdles. I’d also forgotten how many hills were out at West Head. Maybe my body will forgive me by Tuesday.