Here’s how pad stitching looks if you do it by machine on the under collar. And as an after thought…
So the rough plan on this roll collar is to add another crescent shaped interfacing and stitch rows of curves, starting from the centre.
See what I mean? I’m working on the right side of the fabric and using the zipper foot as my width guide. Yep, crude but it works.
And that’s all that you need to do before continuing on your jacket construction journey.
Note to self – plan ahead of time and sew the pad stitching before constructing the jacket – Doh!
Don’t just look at what I’ve done, go to some real references.
Singer Tailoring – 1988,
Jackets for real people by Alto, Neall and Palmer – 2006,
New Simplicity Sewing Book – 1979
Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Palmer and Pletsch – 1977
velosews 
That is a good way to make the roll line work. I tried it once but my fabric was so loosely woven, the pad stitching drew up the under collar and it was too small!
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Unorthodox but if it works, it works!
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