Here’s how pad stitching looks if you do it by machine on the under collar. And as an after thought…
See what I mean? I’m working on the right side of the fabric and using the zipper foot as my width guide. Yep, crude but it works.
Don’t just look at what I’ve done, go to some real references.
Singer Tailoring – 1988,
Jackets for real people by Alto, Neall and Palmer – 2006,
New Simplicity Sewing Book – 1979
Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Palmer and Pletsch – 1977