Not using calico

While drafting my first trouser pattern for ‘Make a Garment a Month’ I thought I should also test a close fitting paper pattern using McCalls 5397 for summer. While this pattern was printed in 2007, I can’t find the pics online so here’s my version. This pattern is one of my November Minerva Blogger Network projects.

These trousers have a fitted, darted waist with facing and the zip is in the back. So there’s no fly finish needed.

Calico does nothing for my motivation so I used cotton batik I bought in Arab St, Singapore last year. I made the 12 using their hip size calculations and they were big and baggy. So I’ve trimmed it back and raised the crotch so I now have summer weekend trousers. This pattern is ready to use now for my Minerva project.

Self drafted front view
Self drafted back view

This two unflattering pics above are the front and back view of the pair I drafted using flat pattern method from Winifred Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s wear. There’s some fullness across the front at the tummy and the front rise was too high so that’s been adjusted. The back and leg fit work well. I’ve added a waistband and the zip is at the back.

So now I have two fitted print trousers to wear with a plain top for summer. The wrap top was made in 2009.

This eyelet fabric kept staring at me so I lined this in green poplin and used the self drafted trouser pattern with an added fly front and waistband. Aldrich was my guide. The top is Advance 8190.

This fabric has no give and it is very light so while these trousers are slim fitting, they still have wiggle room and airflow for summer.

There’s more testing going on behind the scenes that you’ll see soon. Thank you for your words of encouragement with my Minerva Blogger Network commitment.


  1. Why are so many trouser legs so uniformly big and baggy? Rhetorical question only :-).

    Your tweaked versions look fantastic – the batik's are gorgeous – love your pattern matching with pants and top. You will get years of summer wear with these. I'll update and add your October garment on my next Make a Garment a Month post.


  2. Wo-you used that pattern-can't wait to see what the final version looks like. Also, I'd strongly suggest burda or jalie rather than the big four for pants that fit with the minimum (or none at all) of mucking around. Although, I can always drape you a block when you're here! 😉


  3. Wow you've been busy! I thought I only had room for one pair of patterned pants in my wardrobe, but after seeing your amazing versions I think I may need to make more – you're right, these will be perfect for summer


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