M5525 – da hood
The Minoru jacket had a hood in the collar so I’ve taken the hood pattern to use it on this trench. Why not read the sewalong instructions that Tasia has done? I’ve lined this version with red binding.
The red lining was used to prepare the welt / zip opening. Tasia has a more impressive and professional version on preparing a zipper opening on her blog.
Here’s the outside collar band look, before applying it to the collar and shoulder.
Guess what? The collar band isn’t wide enough to house the hood. And the hood covers the back shoulder detailing. I don’t like the hood on this trench, so the hood got the flick.
I will use this hood again, but with a wider collar band. I’m happy that I applied the hood to the collar and really happy that it’s not on this trench coat. It just doesn’t work with a hood but it could work for you.
Trench coat inspiration
TJ of The Perfect Nose is always way ahead when it comes to researching most things in life like trench coat styles. When I was stuck in a glove rut, she sent me a gloves Thread article right when I needed a nudge along. Well she’s done it again for anyone who’s contemplating trench styles that aren’t from the big 4 sewing pattern companies.
We tweeted last week about McCalls 5525 being too big for her. That’s where the big 4 sewing patterns let some of us down who are busting to sew, but need a pattern that generally fits with a few adjustments. TJ has listed Patrone, Burda and Knipmode versions you’ll drool over.
Renata is in the middle of making a Burda trench but she’s rethinking a few construction issues.
That’s why I’ve been trawling to other trench options and finishing. And I have a habit of checking out what’s available online, again for detailing ideas.
Now that I’ve been making a trench, I’ve enjoyed doing more research into indie pattern coats.
Roobeedoo has an addiction to Deer and Doe patterns and they have a lovely transeasonal jacket. The Poppy jacket. This is very tempting because of the fit and design lines.
This pattern is rated intermediate however, the style is so feminine it’s very tempting to want to try. I can’t read French so I love using Google translate on their website.
These are the trenchcoat posts:
Jalie 2680: city coat trench
McCalls 5525: single breast trench
McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
McCalls 5525: pockets
McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
McCalls 5525: belt carriers
McCalls 5525: finished
Hey, I'm glad it was so easy to remove. I am forever moving pieces around between patterns too. I have been told before that “You can't just leave things alone.” Oh well.
I am currently trying to make less-full sleeves for my last (3rd) corduroy dress. On the first 2, I kept the fullness, but put in matching pleats to reduce the fullness, Now I've decided I want to actually change the top of the sleeve pattern so I'm working on that with a smooth sleeve cap that I found in another pattern. Frankendress! Just in time for Hallowe'en!
I do like that Collette pattern, but I really need rain COATS–I have 2 jackets & love them, but they don't cover my skirts & dresses & when it's pouring here, I end up w/ 3-4″ inches of soaking hemline.
Looking forward to seeing your completed coat. Love the color!
Your coat is coming along and pity about the hood but so glad it worked out.
Interesting coat patterns and TJ did a wonderful post about the non Big 4 patterns.
One of these days I will be able to tell you which pattern I am going to use!
Shame the hood didn't fit. It looks great and I'm glad to see that you will use it elsewhere. Nice to see your trench moving along.
The trench is coming along nicely 🙂
Part of sewing is editing. Your jacket is going to be lovely.