Peony Pt1 – Spring test

I like using indie patterns and sewing their styles during a sewalong is part of the fun. Sewing is fun – most of the time. Just don’t say ‘bound buttonholes’ too loudly at the moment. Just taking a moment away from the trench journey. Just for a moment and to relieve your boredom.

My first Colette pattern was the Macaron so the Peony was next on the list.

This week I got the invite to Diner de blanc – Sydney but missed out on registering on the day, and this Peony was supposed to be all white. If we did get in, I would then have had to scrounge around for DH’s white outfit. Anyway, there’s no need. DH was thrilled to miss out. I – was quietly relieved.

I did what I thought would be a quick check of the front bodice darts with the tissue and then made the dart changes. I tested the bodice changes with the lining to confirm the fit.

Then I tested the skirt to the bodice and found I actually did need the full bodice darts and I’ve split them into 2 darts. I still don’t acknowledge my body shape changes that I’ve gone through over the last 18 months. How utterly normal is that?

You can also see the extra back bodice width that will be adjusted on the fashion fabric.

Lots of previous reviews commented on the skirt fullness and as I’m short, I decided to slim down the skirt fullness, by 2″. After testing the skirt, I kept the waist width and made the gathers into darts and slimmed the hem fullness. I will raise the skirt centre front seam by 1cm so it doesn’t have a sway back tilt. I’ve already made the sway back adjustment on the back bodice at the waist.

The dress is going to be fully lined because of my eyelet fabric choice and I’ll add black piping to the neckline and sleeves.

The first test dress is next, using the test lining and there are two fabric earmarked.

The main reason I chose the eyelet fabric is because I made an eyelet shirt a couple of years ago and I’m adjusting the side seams so I can wear the shirt this summer.

This huge purple tropical rayon print was from a visit to Vanuatu. It’s soft and light weight.

This rose print is light weight and either fabric will give me the chance to play with placing the prints while testing the dress. And I would still line both fabric because they have a white. Mmmm.
Sew Busy Lizzy has already made a Peony with lemon eyelet fabric and I agree with her advice when you decide to make a Peony. She used piping on her lemon Peony and had bodice adjustments.

I do appreciate the effort of Sarah, Erin and Rochelle who are hosting this dress sewalong for Sew Colette 2.0. The Oolong and Roobios in my stash for future tests.

Sew Squirrel is an excellent way to buy indie patterns in Australia. I was very well looked after when the patterns I wanted weren’t in stock but they became available within a week and she kept me in the loop!

Trench coats ready to wear
Here’s the back of a Burberry Prorsum on The Outnet discounted to £805.87 if you don’t have sewing time or are obsessed with trench coat detailing.

Here’s the D&G purple version discounted to £513.33.

Now because I’m all over the shop, I’ll list the useful Trench coat entries on the right hand side for your reference and mine. I’m no expert but I’ll endeavour to make sure that you can always see useful trench coat posts whenever you can fit in sewing a trench.
 
Janine commented that when she made a trench without the detailing it looked like a lab coat especially if it’s beige. I suppose if the fabric is bright it would still be a bright coat but the detailing, including sewing time, your energy and a clear head, will help your trench evolve. My SIL’s Jalie city coat easily became a trench with the shoulder epaulets and a belt. Have a great weekend.

M5525 – da hood

The Minoru jacket had a hood in the collar so I’ve taken the hood pattern to use it on this trench. Why not read the sewalong instructions that Tasia has done? I’ve lined this version with red binding.
The red lining was used to prepare the welt / zip opening. Tasia has a more impressive and professional version on preparing a zipper opening on her blog.
Here’s the outside collar band look, before applying it to the collar and shoulder. 
Guess what? The collar band isn’t wide enough to house the hood. And the hood covers the back shoulder detailing. I don’t like the hood on this trench, so the hood got the flick.

I will use this hood again, but with a wider collar band. I’m happy that I applied the hood to the collar and really happy that it’s not on this trench coat. It just doesn’t work with a hood but it could work for you.

Trench coat inspiration
TJ of The Perfect Nose is always way ahead when it comes to researching most things in life like trench coat styles. When I was stuck in a glove rut, she sent me a gloves Thread article right when I needed a nudge along. Well she’s done it again for anyone who’s contemplating trench styles that aren’t from the big 4 sewing pattern companies.
We tweeted last week about McCalls 5525 being too big for her. That’s where the big 4 sewing patterns let some of us down who are busting to sew, but need a pattern that generally fits with a few adjustments.  TJ has listed Patrone, Burda and Knipmode versions you’ll drool over.
Renata is in the middle of making a Burda trench but she’s rethinking a few construction issues.
That’s why I’ve been trawling to other trench options and finishing. And I have a habit of checking out what’s available online, again for detailing ideas.

Now that I’ve been making a trench, I’ve enjoyed doing more research into indie pattern coats.

Roobeedoo has an addiction to Deer and Doe patterns and they have a lovely transeasonal jacket. The Poppy jacket. This is very tempting because of the fit and design lines.

This pattern is rated intermediate however, the style is so feminine it’s very tempting to want to try. I can’t read French so I love using Google translate on their website.
I do like the Lady Grey too by Colette patterns.


These are the trenchcoat posts:
Trenchcoat sewing
Jalie 2680: city coat trench
McCalls 5525: single breast trench
McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
McCalls 5525: pockets
McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
McCalls 5525: belt carriers
McCalls 5525: finished