A hidden pocket

I’ve always been interested in the patterns developed by Saf-t-pockets. I made my version of the T-shirt Trifecta a while ago.

They have a pants pattern in three styles for wovens but I wanted to use ponte for travel pants with a hidden pocket for travel. 

So decided to make Silhouette Patterns 3011 Nanette’s yoga pants.

This version was made last year. The fabric used here is a light weight knit with spandex.
So where would you add the hidden pocket? 
What would you make the pocket bag with under ponte? 
Would you use an exposed zipper; and invisible zipper; or a lapped zipper?

The easy decisions were to answer 
  • add the hidden pocket at the front waistband; 
  • use an invisible zipper; 
  • have the zipper close to the hip.

I’m right handed so the pocket should sit on the left.

But how would you do this?
You’ll need fabric for your pocket bag, the pants pattern and fabric (cut to size) and an invisible zipper.
Step 1: Use your invisible zipper foot and sew one side of the zipper to the trouser.
Step 2: Sew the pocket bag to this side of the zipper tape. Sew through the trouser seam allowance and the zipper tape.
Step 3: Sew the waistband on the trousers stopping at either end of the zipper. There will be a gap at either end. You’ll sew this up at the end.

Step 4: Using the invisible zipper foot, sew the remaining side of the zipper to the waistband.
Step 5: Using a normal zipper foot, sew the remaining bits of the waistband to the trouser seam.

Step 6: Using the normal zipper foot, attach the pocket bag to the remaining side of the zipper. Sew through the waistband seam allowance and zipper tape.

Step 7: Sew closed the zipper bag pieces. I’ve used the overlocker for this final step.

You now have your very own invisible pocket!!
The zipper is closed above. 
Can you see it?

The pocket is open. Can you see it yet?

Can you see it now with the scissor handle peeking through?

The fabric and invisible zipper were supplied by Minerva Crafts UK. You’ll see the finished yoga pants later this week as my May Minerva make.

T-shirt test

What’s there to test. It’s just a t-shirt right?

SAF-T POCKETS T-Shirt Trifecta #2014 offers 3 views, zipper pockets, sleeve options and you can mix the patterns up and tailor them to your needs or Mum’s need for pockets. That’s why I bought this pattern.

There’s always some aspect that independent pattern companies offer to set themselves apart from the big companies. That’s why I keep my eyes open for new patterns and new pattern ideas.

So my first test version below is very plain but I learnt how easy the instructions are to follow and they include methods of adding the front pocket with either an invisible zip or a normal zip.  That’s helpful! The pocket is there hiding along the piping I’ve added. The neckline has fold over elastic; I’ve shortened the sleeve; and fitted the centre back for a firm fit. These patterns use sewing 3/8″ seam and to me this is different but still very accurate. I can get used to 3/8″ seams.

I did ruin my first invisible zipper when I cut the zipper length, half sewed in the pocket bags and then checked to see if the zipper closed properly before finishing the pocket. Doh! Well that’s when the zipper pull came off in mid-air.

the hidden invisible zipper

I have lots of zippers from Zipperstop so I quickly relearned that I need to adjust the zipper length first with a bit of sewing before I cut it to size while working on the pocket. Notion stash to the rescue!

Showing the iron-on seam tape to reinforce the pocket bag.
The instructions suggest using a woven fabric for the pocket bag (again helpful) but I used iron-on seam tape to keep the zipper stitching straight and flat before sewing in the zipper so I could still use the same knit fabric for the pocket bag.
A closer view of the pipine and neckline finish

Thanks for commenting that some of you avoid pockets and detailing. I feel I need to make pockets of all varieties because Mum loves clothes with pockets so if I can make her some tops with pockets, then that makes her happy. Dad always loved safari jackets even after the 70s, because of the 4 pockets on the front bodice.