Jackie has raglan sleeves and I still need to make a roll shoulder adjustment so let me show you how.
The adjustment above is from my adjustment reference book: Fitting and pattern alterations: A multi-method approach to the art of style selection, fitting and alteration by E. Liechty, J. Rasband and D. Pottberg-Steineckert. Expensive book to buy but used a lot.
In the photo above, the red marks above show where to add room at the seam line and where to cut hinges to do this. The cross marks indicate where you take room out at the seam line.
Above is my crude way of doing this. So I added 1.5cm for the back seams on the back piece and back seam on the sleeve and then excess removed from the front seams (1.5cm) using hinges.
That’s all I needed to change for a roll shoulder on a raglan sleeve.
And as we head into the weekend, here’s what Janelle, Lena and I have covered.
Printing your pattern.
I bet you’ve already finished your Jackie just in time for the cold spell we’re having right now.
Yesterday was a good day sewing, hosted by Sharon (thanks Sharon).
Our weather is still warm but not humid anymore, and it’s autumn. This knit dress is a Palmer/Pletsch classic fit that has some really good reviews on Pattern Review, so I used this blue printed knit bought at Lincraft (50% off) in February ($6).
I didn’t try to match the print because this is a toile dress. As you can see below, I used a dark blue fabric as the midriff stay. The midriff gathers requires two layers over the midriff stay, so i only used one layers of gathers.
Now that I’m getting more practice at adjusting patterns, I will keep ploughing through the new patterns I bought last year. The great feaure in this pattern is there is a whole section dedicated to adjusting this pattern. Bonus for anyone who is making this up without any help or reference material.
Lots of the previous reviews mentioned the fact that as some points, you are sewing through more than six layers of fabric. The reason for this is that the front piece doubles onto itself, so the picture above shows where I’m cutting the pattern back, so there’s less bulk in the front bodice.
The midriff gathers also requires two layers over the midriff stay, so I only used one layers of gathers.
So this dress has:
– sway back adjustment
– dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
– full bust adjustment – c cup
– roll shoulder (2 cm)
– waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist.
I’ve also made the short sleeve version in a zebra knit now.
Here are the other two tops I am making up for my SWAP.
Butterick 5283 is the one I’ve just done twice (spots and grey).
This fabric below has different properties to the other two.
I like the colour of this fabric because it goes with my darkness theme. I wore the grey one top to work and it was comfortable and looked good, so I know this is top is a keeper.
Diary of a sewing fanatic raised some good points about how to SWAP. They were points that I could understand.
I don’t have a storyboard, I just have a theme.
The pattern below is a new pattern so I’ve got the energy to adjust it to work for me. The fabric didn’t cost much but it’s dark but can be matched to other items in my wardrobe.
Life’s too short to make ill-fitting clothes.
This was a quick top to make at our sewing weekend, with one hitch. I cut out the small size and not the medium size. The view above shows the extra piece I added to the side seams.
When I wore it as a small, my tummy rolls where there for all to stare at. OMG. What was I thinking.
The additional side pieces can’t easily be seen and the original suggestion to add the extra as ruching made me feel more self conscious about my rolls, so the top sits flat on my body. Phew. This is another piece that I bought when we were in Melbourne fabric shopping. The rest of the fabric will be made into a cardie.