Trousers – from scratch

What’s another challenge amongst friends?

SarahLiz is a keen sewer and blogs her sewing development as she goes. She shares her journey and I’ve picked up a lot of lessons from her blog posts. Making toiles is one of them.

This year I’ve drafted an A-line dress and a pencil skirt, so this month it’s time to draft trousers. After studying for a few months, I’ve realised I learn well on my own and as most of you know, pictures don’t lie.

Made in 2011

I’ve read mix reviews about Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear by Winifred Aldrich and it took me a good 6 months to get a trouser pattern to fit me in 2011, but my curves are back. So while this is purely a selfish endevour, I know I’ll have to make loose-fitting trousers for Mum, so it’s worth practising. I know Mum’s fitting points.

I have other resources on hand if I get stuck. And patience.

My skinny jeans still fit nicely, the Jalie jeans do as do the pull-on trousers I use for hot humid weather using fine cotton fabrics, but it’s time to learn how to draft this pattern from scratch.

Made this year.

And I have a Craftsy course up my sleeves too.

Meetup with Anita McAdam
If you haven’t already let Anita know you’ll be joining us at the Powerhouse Museum on Sunday 27th October, go to the facebook page she has specifically created for this meet up page so you can let her know you’ll be there. You don’t have to have a blog to attend.

Pants – Vogue 8503

There was plenty beige fabric to make pants and a skirt, so I’ve chosen a simple flat-fronted pant with back zipper. This pattern has had a few reviews on PR but mainly for the top and not for the pants. I bought this pattern because of the top, but have yet to make it up.

 

Below is the leg width adjustment and hem adjustment. I’ve taken out 5 cm (2 inches) from the width at the bottom of the pants. The hem has also been adjusted for flat shoes. The pattern envelope indicated I’m a 14, but the pattern (with ease) indicated a size 10, so that’s what I made up.
I still had to do a sway back adjustment. I’ve since added a hook and eye to the top of the zipper so it won’t show. This is a normal zipper, not an invisible zip.
Below is the basic sway back adjustment. I also lowered 2.5 cm off the centre front waistline.

The waistline has a facing so this was a ‘no-tears’ pants pattern. The other factor that helped was the loose weave and softness of the fabric.
If I make these pants again, I’ll add in the tapered width to see if the drag lines at the bottom disappear. As a set this is jacket and pants look a bit dull so I’ll have to wear a bright top in future.