A couple more

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Once I make a pattern work, I’ll use is a few times more. In this case I made New Look 6351 a couple more times after the initial denim jacket.

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This jacket worked well.

This African wax print was my next jacket. I love the colours and the print is on a black background so it works with the denim pants I’d made last month.

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Then it was time to test out a french style white-ish version.

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Here’s the white jacket as a work in progress. It matches with my workhorse Janome sewing machine.

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Right now I’ve still got to photograph it worn. The deadstock fabric has very little weight so it needed to be lined. I think this will be a handy ‘topper’ for Summer nights.

Thanks for reading.

 

McCalls 6657 tech notes

Just for something different – a coat McCalls 6657 View C.

We’re still feeling the cold this winter and I’ll reveal this little gem on Thursday. If you’re on Instagram you would have spotted the progress photo.

This pattern is rated easy and is not lined, however my fabric is wool so I wanted to line it. Hence this tech note post.
Lining

This coat has a facing so I’ve laid the facing onto the front pattern piece and draft the remaining lining piece with 1cm overlap for seam allowance. 


I did the same to develop the centre back lining and kept the centre back seam for some lining wiggle room.

Pocket change

Pockets are the same shape for most patterns. I find they are too deep so here’s how I shorted the pocket without affecting the pocket opening and still keep the general shape too. This isn’t a huge change, it means I can reach into the base of the pocket without overreaching #petite.

Plaid matching
Then comes the plaid matching exercise as the back piece has a centre back seam. I eliminated it and cut the fabric on the fold. Then I had to line up the plaid pieces to the front.

This fabric is from Minerva Crafts UK. I cut the front and back pieces as doubles because the plaids line up evenly.

Inside niceness
This is a coat so I made sure to add some coat trims. What you can see below is the back neck facing trim I’ve been using on this coat to double as a coat hook. Neat trick.

The lining has a centre back fold. And the trim was added on each facing piece after I sewed the lining pieces.

See you on Thursday.

Finished – Kwik Sew 3716

These new lining pieces were drawn from the existing jacket pieces minus the collar and back neck facings. It’s a drag to trace off but necessary. The centre back has a 2.5cm vent for movement.

Then I decided to add bias edging at the join between the lining and facings. I figured – why not. This jacket is going to be well worn so I decided it should better than RTW too.

This practice jacket way makes it less stressful making the formal jacket. These pictures will  will prompt me when I’m sewing later on.

This was the right shoulder adjustment.

Here are shots of the formal jacket. I have one more formal jacket to complete and then it’s on to the skirt/top combos.


My sewing room rant:
My main sewing machine has lost the lighting mechanism but I’m used a desk spotlight to get through this lot of sewing. The replacement globe didn’t work.
Then the overlocker went on the fritz. From the corner of my eye, I watched a sliver of lining wafted out of the catcher into the overlocker base and ‘splat’, the looper threads broke. And the threads continually kept breaking with each rethreading attempt until I gave up for the night. Next morning I grabbed the hairdryer from the bathroom and menacingly pointed it into the overlocker base and gave it a good shot of cold air to clean out the base and the offending lining sliver and its accomplices disappeared and are no where to be seen. The stitching and looper threads are back to normal. Seriously, I think the full moon had something to do with this strange overlocker kerfuffle.