So the second formal jacket is complete and I’m thinking of the skirt and top combinations.
The jacket has three rows of topstitching and I’m thinking of doing three rows of topstitching along the jacket and sleeve hems. Maybe topstitching on the sleeve hem might be enough to balance this feature.
Mum still needs to try these jackets on for a final fitting before I finish the hems properly.
The button loop is made from two rows of the braid edging I’ve used on the lining. I’ve zigzagged two rows of the braid edging and the stitching is keeping the button loop in shape.
McCalls 6247 V-neck top: This style uses a knit fabric with a print as the contrasting top with the combo. Knits will provide Mum with movement so that’s a good thing. What I might add is a chiffon scarf tie to this top from my Jalie pattern.
New look 6609: I like the jacket pattern and I would convert this to a top – maybe. On second thoughts, I might just stick to the v-neck knit top and Kwik Sew cross over top that I’ve made for her before.
The skirts will be straight with elastic waist but I might add two vents at the back so Mum can walk easily. I’ll make all of these decisions when I start working on each piece.
These new lining pieces were drawn from the existing jacket pieces minus the collar and back neck facings. It’s a drag to trace off but necessary. The centre back has a 2.5cm vent for movement.
Then I decided to add bias edging at the join between the lining and facings. I figured – why not. This jacket is going to be well worn so I decided it should better than RTW too.
This practice jacket way makes it less stressful making the formal jacket. These pictures will will prompt me when I’m sewing later on.
|This was the right shoulder adjustment.
Here are shots of the formal jacket. I have one more formal jacket to complete and then it’s on to the skirt/top combos.
My sewing room rant:
My main sewing machine has lost the lighting mechanism but I’m used a desk spotlight to get through this lot of sewing. The replacement globe didn’t work.
Then the overlocker went on the fritz. From the corner of my eye, I watched a sliver of lining wafted out of the catcher into the overlocker base and ‘splat’, the looper threads broke. And the threads continually kept breaking with each rethreading attempt until I gave up for the night. Next morning I grabbed the hairdryer from the bathroom and menacingly pointed it into the overlocker base and gave it a good shot of cold air to clean out the base and the offending lining sliver and its accomplices disappeared and are no where to be seen. The stitching and looper threads are back to normal. Seriously, I think the full moon had something to do with this strange overlocker kerfuffle.
Here’s a road test of this unlined jacket for Mum. This is a semi-fitted jacket with pockets in the front seams. The collar is built into the front piece and there are side pieces that join the front and back bodice pieces.
I’ve made the shorter View B length with the pocket features of View A. The pockets are placed so they don’t hang passed the jacket hem.
I’ve used a similar stretch woven fabric to the intended fabric and with the feedback from Kathy on PR, I’ve closed the neckline dart and the collar sewed in easily.
I’ve sewn 5 parallel rows of topstitching on the collar edge because Mum’s RTW jacket, this is replacing, has the same feature. Mum has worn her RTW jacket a lot and really needs replacing. The RTW jacket has a patch pocket.
Below is a closer view of the collar detailing.
I’ve added some reinforcing bar tacks to the pocket opening for durability.
This fabric is washable but I know I’ll be dry cleaning it for her.
I prefer a lined jacket and Mum commented that the jacket felt cold ie, the jacket needs lining, so that’s my next step.
To do list:
– shorten the sleeve length
– adjust the right shoulder
– add shoulder pads
– add lining. I’ve already traced out a front bodice lining piece. I now need trace the back bodice lining piece, using the existing facing piece.
Then I can get the real formal jacket started – and finished.
Also on my food blog I’ve added 4 of Mum’s recipes that you might enjoy. I’ll keep adding her recipes up as I road test them. Yesterday I road tested the lemon slice – which is wonderful to enjoy in summer.