Perspective

Which way it the right way to use a large border print? This month I experimented with a large border John Kaldor print from Minerva Crafts on Sew Over It Eve dress.

The fun was strategically cutting out the pieces with this border print. I love this print.

I used to get ‘hung up’ on figuring out what the ‘right way’ to use a border print.

Rules are a great guide but sometimes I’ve been hampered by them.

Which way is up or where should the border print be placed.

I’m not tall so my options are limited on how I can use any print.

Internally I used French seams where possible. The fabric is light and soft so overlocking the seams made them feel thick and clunky.

The skirt is soft and flowy so French seams didn’t weigh down this dress.

I used Prym Microtextil sharps needle. The 70/10 size from the mixed pack sewed through this fabric very smoothly.
The neckline finish uses Prym plain cotton tape (no facing) so again there’s no bulk at the neckline. I chose the cotton tape and the tape weave is very sturdy so I was able to ease in the neckline across the bust.
The neckline across the bust hugs against me so I didn’t need to do an adjustment, like I have with other neckline.

Now to pair this dress with my work jackets.

This is an easy dress to make for work if you can’t find a thing to wear.

Thanks again Minerva Crafts. 

Don’t forget to use ‘maria’ to get 10% off any Prym purchases from Minerva Crafts.


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Tropical wrap dress

Earlier this year I bought a great border print from Cabramatta and after making my BurdaStyle wrap dress I decided to try it again for a business casual option.

It’s lined

It’s secured with a snap.

It’s still got long sleeves for the office.

It’s also a nice option for weekend events and I’ve already worn this quiet a bit to work.

And yes, it’s a bit louder than the first dress.

Peony Pt1 – Spring test

I like using indie patterns and sewing their styles during a sewalong is part of the fun. Sewing is fun – most of the time. Just don’t say ‘bound buttonholes’ too loudly at the moment. Just taking a moment away from the trench journey. Just for a moment and to relieve your boredom.

My first Colette pattern was the Macaron so the Peony was next on the list.

This week I got the invite to Diner de blanc – Sydney but missed out on registering on the day, and this Peony was supposed to be all white. If we did get in, I would then have had to scrounge around for DH’s white outfit. Anyway, there’s no need. DH was thrilled to miss out. I – was quietly relieved.

I did what I thought would be a quick check of the front bodice darts with the tissue and then made the dart changes. I tested the bodice changes with the lining to confirm the fit.

Then I tested the skirt to the bodice and found I actually did need the full bodice darts and I’ve split them into 2 darts. I still don’t acknowledge my body shape changes that I’ve gone through over the last 18 months. How utterly normal is that?

You can also see the extra back bodice width that will be adjusted on the fashion fabric.

Lots of previous reviews commented on the skirt fullness and as I’m short, I decided to slim down the skirt fullness, by 2″. After testing the skirt, I kept the waist width and made the gathers into darts and slimmed the hem fullness. I will raise the skirt centre front seam by 1cm so it doesn’t have a sway back tilt. I’ve already made the sway back adjustment on the back bodice at the waist.

The dress is going to be fully lined because of my eyelet fabric choice and I’ll add black piping to the neckline and sleeves.

The first test dress is next, using the test lining and there are two fabric earmarked.

The main reason I chose the eyelet fabric is because I made an eyelet shirt a couple of years ago and I’m adjusting the side seams so I can wear the shirt this summer.

This huge purple tropical rayon print was from a visit to Vanuatu. It’s soft and light weight.

This rose print is light weight and either fabric will give me the chance to play with placing the prints while testing the dress. And I would still line both fabric because they have a white. Mmmm.
Sew Busy Lizzy has already made a Peony with lemon eyelet fabric and I agree with her advice when you decide to make a Peony. She used piping on her lemon Peony and had bodice adjustments.

I do appreciate the effort of Sarah, Erin and Rochelle who are hosting this dress sewalong for Sew Colette 2.0. The Oolong and Roobios in my stash for future tests.

Sew Squirrel is an excellent way to buy indie patterns in Australia. I was very well looked after when the patterns I wanted weren’t in stock but they became available within a week and she kept me in the loop!

Trench coats ready to wear
Here’s the back of a Burberry Prorsum on The Outnet discounted to £805.87 if you don’t have sewing time or are obsessed with trench coat detailing.

Here’s the D&G purple version discounted to £513.33.

Now because I’m all over the shop, I’ll list the useful Trench coat entries on the right hand side for your reference and mine. I’m no expert but I’ll endeavour to make sure that you can always see useful trench coat posts whenever you can fit in sewing a trench.
 
Janine commented that when she made a trench without the detailing it looked like a lab coat especially if it’s beige. I suppose if the fabric is bright it would still be a bright coat but the detailing, including sewing time, your energy and a clear head, will help your trench evolve. My SIL’s Jalie city coat easily became a trench with the shoulder epaulets and a belt. Have a great weekend.

colour break – Kwik Sew 2683

As you can see, I’m taking a colour break.


This was the first top I made today. There’s no science in the pattern placement and the neckling on the pattern was tight around my neck, so I’ve dropped it a bit.


When I sewed on the FOE on the neckline, that’s when I had used the one step process with a ‘few tears’ when I had to resew the FOE on the back neckline.
This pattern has my usual adjustments. I got this knit last month when Pitt Trading had their 50% off sale.
By the way, this is a really comfortable top to wear to work with my purple skirt. My work mates have been very supportive as they usually see me in greys and blacks around the office..

Design learning – Kwik Sew 2694

As you can see, I had to take my own pic and this design worked.
I’ve used a two-step process to sew on this FOE.
These photos are proof that this two-step process and it worked. No tears. 
The key design suggestion was to use part of the fabric border under the bust. The picture above is the before shot.
This is the after shot and the shot at the top is the finished product.
This pattern has had all the alterations to make it work on me – sway back adjustment, neckline gaps, shortened shoulder line, lowered back hem edge.
Tonight ACDC is playing and they’re not playing as loud as they were two nights ago. I can still hear every word – and they’re still good.

Swap #3

Here’s the next skirt in dark fabric and I had to match the pattern somehow, on the skirt.

There’s a large flower filled wheel barrow that I used as my anchor point. I’ve used this to help match the pattern around the skirt. This is my favourite a-line skirt and I’ve used an invisible zipe in the back. There’s no waistband. The skirt is lined as well.

$3 skirt


At The Cloth Shop Melbourne, we saw the nicest fabric. This confirmed that Melbourne sewers have loads of taste and choice. As I’m a bit of a bargain shopper, there was a roll of corduroy, black with a greenish print. The aim of our Melbourne trip was to build green into my wardrobe, so this was perfect. The price of the fabric was more perfect $3/metre.


Once I’d completed my slow walk around the bolts of fabric, imagining ‘what could be’, I found the bargain box and this fabric was peeping at me.

The owner at The Cloth Shop was very chatty and we arrived there at the end of a long day of fabric shopping. If there were cappuccinos in the store, I think we would have stayed longer.

I don’t normally use a red zipper for a black shirt but this is a casual zipper. I wouldn’t try this with properly tailored garments.
The skirt is fully lined because this is a winter skirt and without lining, it clings to my winter tights or fishnets.