Creating clothes is what I do. Altering RTW is not, especially if it’s a formal mens jacket. But I’ve done it #phew.
As the eternal pushover, I said yes to extending the sleeves on a formal jacket for my ‘little brother’. I could not have completed this alteration without the style and sewing advice of those very able sewing men: Joost of make my pattern and Thomas sewingdude. Thank you both for all your advice last week.
|First attempt: moved the top button down.|
On the left is the original sleeve. The right is the first attempt at adjusting the sleeve.
Joost advised me to move the top button down after lengthening the sleeve. When I took this pic, I then decided to move another button down so the button placement matched/was closer to the new sleeve length.
What I discovered
The buttonholes are sewn and not cut, making moving the buttons easy.
|Here’s the original insides showing the buttons stitching.|
This jacket had a layer of armoweft under the buttonhole stitching.
|A piece of fusing is used to keep the lining and sleeve seams together.|
|Here’s the stitching for the entry point on the sleeve lining. The lining pocket inside the jacket is really cute.|
Both sleeve linings had an entry point. The stitching was in a contrast colour and easy to undo. So I was able to unpick the sleeve without affecting the sleeve seams.
The sleeve corner had a row of handstitching so I made sure I did a row of hand stitching to keep the sleeve looking RTW.
|Reattaching the lining to the jacket sleeve|
I didn’t have exactly the same fabric at home, but I did have a similar dark grey piece to use on the inside of the sleeve. There is a 1/2cm fold on the inside where I joined the stash fabric to the jacket fabric.
|Finished sleeves; to be professionally pressed.|
My little brother wore his jacket last night to a formal event. He was really pleased the sleeves were at the right length for him. He didn’t feel at all self conscious wearing his re-engineered jacket and had a great night with the ‘missus’ while we babysat the kids. They both beat us at Xbox and ‘Game of life’ in a big way.