Grace of Badmomgoodmom asked about the adjustments I do for ‘cyclist legs’. You can interpret this as full thighs for pedaling for hours and hours to get from A to B.
My favourite ‘go to’ reference is “Fitting and pattern alteration: A multi-method approach to the art of style selection, fitting and alteration” by Liechty, Rashband and Pottberg-Steineckert. Or the big red book.
Above are three ways to add width to the top of the leg. This book always offers a number of ways to tackle a fit issue. I’ve used the slash method (see below).
|Close up view|
How did I figure the amount to open the leg? I added 1 cm to the front and the back. This then gave me 4cm extra width for my thighs. That’s a lot of extra thigh room.
This shows you the amount I added for the sway back and the deeper curve on the back piece. The first test shorts were 4cm too low at centre back so that’s how I knew how much to insert.
The book shows you the initial image with the drag lines so you can analyse what adjustments you need to make, if it’s just you, a camera and a family member on hand.
If I stop cycling and training, I might need to read about a ‘low buttocks curve’ adjustment.
Thanks for the tutorial. This is really helpful.
So often, we see pix on the internet of fit-customized garments and wonder why our own work doesn't measure up. But, it's helpful for more experienced seamsters to show how they got there.
You've inspired me to better document my own fit customizations.
Looks like a great resource- thanks for the sneak peak! Did a quick google with the intention of adding it to my wishlist but wasn't expecting it to be sooooo expensive, ouch!!
This is one reference that's priced like a uni text.
It's still on my wish list 😉 Maybe we can start a social sewing library 😉
I'm always happy to share my resources.
Happy to pass on these details Grace.