Pattern magic start

I’ve been admiring the Pattern Magic work that Melissa and Carolyn have been succeeding with for a while.This year I bought all 3 Pattern Magic books and they’re all in English but I have a habit of not reading the drafting instructions too closely. And since I started dabbling with the first book I found the Flickr group and Tracy of ‘the material girls’ work. Yippee!

What I didn’t realise was that once I showed Renata the first Pattern Magic book, she bought a copy too. So was spent a Saturday at The Remnant Warehouse drafting as best we could.

Below are the 3 drafts I attempted so far.

Pattern Magic page 60:
I tried my hand at the collar with two distinct expressions first. It looked simple but a casual observer noticed that the top collar is slimmer than the bottom collar. A head slap moment ensued. I’ve used Connie Crawford’s blouse (Butterick 5538) for this collar because I had used this pattern at a workshop recently.  

Marked cutting points on both sides of the collar.
It was later pointed out to me the top collar is skinnier that the bottom collar.
The collar pieces have been cut and is ready to be spread to size.

This was the first version so you can see what the resulting pattern piece is like.
I was lucky enough to play with a fabric toile version and I made a few more tweaks at the time.

The top collar now has a squared collar point and the top collar is much skinnier than the bottom collar with the help of Angie Zimmerman. Angie was fascinated with Pattern Magic because she has been sewing for others and teaching sewing for a long time and the designs in the book inspired her creativeness too.

Here’s a close up of the collar in the finished toile. The front and back yokes are fake. This is where I took out some room below the shoulders on the front and back bodice pieces. I forgot to take the same amount out of the sleeve head, hence the gathers at the top of the sleeve. Voila, design feature:) The buttons were from my stash. After the bust cup adjustment workshop and the inclusion of the Pattern Magic collar my view is the blouse is baggy but comfortable.

The white eyelet blouse below uses the intented fabric. After many years of wearing close fitted knit tops and jackets I think this blouse pattern could be closer fitting using a stretch woven and with a centre front zipper. I think I’ll look at Pattern Magic for a new sleeve style too. What do you think? 
When I make this collar again I’ll interface all the collar pieces so the top piece stands up. I love this feature so my view is this Pattern Magic collar was worth trying.
PS: When I wore the green shirt to the Sydney sewer meet up, the cuff detailing hadn’t been added. I ran out of time to finish this bit of sewing but sewed on the cuffs, buttons, buttonholes the very next day🙂
The green blouse and eyelet blouse reviews are on Pattern Review.

Pattern Magic page 13:

Then I tried my hand at the Deppari shirt but I used the princess line shirt and did the Deppari detailing on the Front Side piece only.
I’m a B size on a good day so the detailing is not as pronounced but may turn out to be a good laugh. I’ve used Connie Crawford’s blouse pattern for this feature. I’m ready to test this out in the New Year.

Pattern Magic page 57: Then I had a go at the Bamboo shoot pattern. This was fun. I enjoyed analysing the design lines, when to start cutting and then “what do I do now” set in. I’ve used the Peony bodice for this trial.

This is the front piece showing the cutting lines. I numbered them to keep tracke of where I was working.
This shows the spread of the cuts.

The piece is now on a paper to draw the final front pattern with the folds marked and numbered.
Now to test this work…
This kinda worked. I did this test piece with Angie Zimmerman.

On closer inspection, the top right  fold was missing.

Here’s the inside stitching. This needs a bit more work. So I now have another draft to test in the New Year.


  1. WOW!!! That looks so cool! I've heard about the Pattern Magic books, but I had no idea what kind of things are inside. I'll have to add them to my wishlist. Thanks for writing about your drafts!


  2. You are whizzing through the exercises! bravo! and the results on the double collared shirt look great. I've made the deppari shirt too, and the bamboo top, both of them are in my PM flickr set and the pattern magic flickr group.
    Looking forward to seeing what you make next 🙂


  3. I've got an Australian Stitches magazine that has a detailed tutorial on the bamboo top. Happy to post to you (or anyone else) if interested as I am finished with that issue. :-). Lovely work. So interesting to see it translated into a finished garment.


  4. The green collar looked fabulous the other day at the Sydney Sewers meet up. Very architectural…I liked the almost pillow-like plushiness. The white eyelet looks cool for summer, though I know just what you mean re being used to more fitted knit tops. Love the 'palm leaf' plaited front…I have that one on the agenda ….some day…


  5. Your green shirt looked impressive the other Saturday, but I really like the white eyelet one and would be super with the collars interfaced. Can't wait to see the bamboo shirt finished.


  6. Thank you for sharing your Pattern Magic! I'm so curious to get my hands on these books and you have just made me more so!!


  7. I have the Pattern magic books too but have not worked up the nerve to try anything. I love the bamboo shoot shirt! Thanks for sharing the details!


  8. Very impressive job on the Pattern Magic patterns. Both the green and white blouses look fantastic. Some day I will get to these books myself. I sure do love the designs.


  9. Wow, these are so neat. It's so fun to watch the few bloggers who are really working with these patterns. I have the first two books, but haven't put in the mental energy for them yet. The bamboo top is the one I most want to try.


  10. I love your green blouse – I was worried you thought I may have been staring at you but I was trying to get a good look at that amazing collar when we met at the sewists meetup last month! I don't think I have the patience or energy to use the pattern magic books, but your work has certainly paid off


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