Jacket fav: Vogue 8931

Finally. I found a jacket style I like and a pattern I have already fitted (Vogue 8931) for this month’s Minerva Crafts project. This French crepe and buttons worked together well. The fabric is soft, resilient and was a confidence builder. 

These buttons in two different sizes take this jacket from ordinary to being ‘just a bit different’. My idea was to take ‘ordinary’ navy to a more interesting look.

My wardrobe plan is to have a work jacket for this dress too.

The purple jacket gets worn regularly in the office and the shape has held up really well. I’ve worn this jacket for over a year so I know the fit works. This time I’ve made the 3-button version with the buttons ‘on show’ and adding ‘real’ pockets. I went for a riding jacket style.

The jacket

So here’s the new jacket with my highland inspired dress looking ‘highland-like’. Ok, I’ll stop smiling now.

Here’s how the new jacket looks up close and I’ve blued up the colour so you can see the contrasts.

I still can’t believe my piping worked. It really did.

I always get my jackets and coats professionally pressed once they’re made.

Here are the main areas where a deep breath and a calm atmosphere helped me along the way.


I used the pocket pieces from Vogue 8732, because that’s what I had available to me. The welts were made thinner.

I’ve used a contrasting thread to guide my sewing.

Here’s the underside that I have to contend with.

Below is the corner pocket stitching that keeps the pocket square.

I call these two happy smiling pockets.

Facing detailing

This is something I enjoy doing as my signature detailing.
I also felt I needed to use the navy ribbon I had order for the highland dress but didn’t use.

Collar notches

Now this isn’t the collar technique I used. I followed the instructions and below is my checking to make sure they matched.


I don’t usually handstitch along the sleeve stitching line but this time I did to make sure the sleeve was puckerless. This crepe is beautiful and very pliable.


These are the markings I made to make sure the buttonholes all started and finished in the same place.

I love these buttons.

So you could say I love this jacket style and it goes with a few pieces I already have in my wardrobe. I could use this jacket as a riding jacket, and I’ll show you what I mean in July.

Thanks again to Minerva Crafts for supplying everything to make this riding jacket.

Now this jacket is a work staple.
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MMMay Wk 2

A funny thing happened to me on the way to work last week. I kept stopping along the way to work to take pics – in safe places of course. “Sir Tripod” took these photos.

Day 5: Grey ponte knit dress using Butterick 5676
I love this jungle gym as do all the kids in the neighbourhood.

Day 6: Waratah print top using New Look 6808 (to be blogged) 

Burda 7746 lined wool pants that are so handy throughout the winter months.

The tree in the background is a brilliant colour right now and I had to take this shot because it won’t be like this for too much longer.

Day 7:

This small businesses I drive by each day fascinate me. There’s a drive in cafe on this particular block.

Vintage dress with Simplicity mesh wrap.

I have a new wool wrap coming up. The fabric is gorgeous.

Day 8:

Today I took a different route and found another urban gem.

Dandelion dress with lace sleeves. I bought a RTW cardi that matched last year. I know…

After seeing this photo I knew I was looking tired…so I went and had my ‘hair done‘. 

Day 9: Blue theme

I was feeling blue with Mothers Day approaching so the bluest I could manage was the blue flowers on this top. Jalie jeans and Kwik Sew top. Wearing me made clothes keeps me happy.

Day 10: Spotted with the lovely Susan lunching and talking all things fabric. Her knowledge of the garment industry is mind blowing. You’ve seen her knicker patterns right?

Vogue 8774 green jeans
Minoru jacket
New Look 6149 raglan top (to be blogged)
Picture taken by our trusty waiter at Toastcafe.

Day 11:

Vogue 1204 purple jeans
Minoru jacket
Kwik Sew 33787 knot top that I’m made lots and lots of times.
Presidio urban purse
Mr V took this pic.
#MMM14 mornings also included activewear. Fehr Trade’s Duathlons in two lengths and PB Jam leggings.

This week’s charity bag has 9 pieces including a top that was a good idea at that time but not anymore. 

Decisions:I’m going through a design idea frenzy and my head is spinning with ideas for Tessutis Jaywalk competition. My Pinterest stripe board is overflowing with ideas. This is a tempting challenge…

Minerva Network Blogger – December summer

Merry Christmas and I hope everyone still has that holiday feeling. It’s summer here and it’s scorching hot. No snow, just a whole lot of heat and humidity. We have the Sydney to Hobart yacht race on Boxing Day and the traditional Boxing Day test match in Melbourne to keep us celebrating the season in our very hot summer. 

I’m on holidays too so I’ve made a cool summer holiday dress and my summer work jacket. Christmas Day was too cool to wear this dress for my Christmas hostess duties with the family this year.

Cool summer holiday dress

New Look 6122 has 3 neckline options and can be made either maxi or short length.

I chose View B with a knee length skirt.

The dress combines a stripe knit and a solid colour knit from Minerva Crafts UK. I chose the stripe knit. Vicki picked the solid colour knit for me. Thanks Vicki! Both knits have minimal stretch so they are excellent fabrics to work with.

Unlike my test version, this version uses size 8 for a better bodice fit.

The version you’re looking at is the initial halter neck style that I changed a week later.

You can see the shoulder straps are now sewn onto the back bodice, and I’ve left off the waist ties.

I found the instructions made the whole bodice construction very easy to achieve.

I don’t usually wear gathers on a skirt but this is a summer holiday dress and in the heat and humidity, comfort is key to me. Thankfully the gathers are in the centre of the skirt pieces and not on the hips.

After finishing this dress I pattern tested an activewear top for Melissa of Fehr Trading.

The bra lining of her top is brilliant for training at the gym and I crudely added the bra lining to this dress after I finished making it. I tell you what, this bra lining gives me heaps of support now.

DH took this shot while we were visiting Bathurst on the weekend before Christmas. There’s a lot of bodice support in this dress. Just what I wanted. I wore this dress all day and loved it.

These are the farmers markets at Bathurst. You can read about the test version here. 

This is an easy dress to make as is. Views B and D are my favourites but I’m sure I’ll be able to use all of these styles. And if you need more bodice support, add a bra lining. It’s worth the extra effort.

Summer work jacketMaking this summer jacket using Vogue 8931 was a lot of fun. This jacket style gives you a few options and the ability to colour block to make it ‘your own’. That’s got to be a good thing.

I made View C using the linen-look cotton I used for the trouser pattern last month. I know ‘matching’ isn’t in but I prefer to wear one colour top-to-toe and then add a contrasting blouse.

I like using Vogue patterns for work wear and this jacket didn’t disappoint me.
After making a calico test, I made the 8 at the shoulders and 10 at the waist and hips. I avoid using calico when testing new patterns but for a jacket like this, I felt it needed to be tested for fit and to practice the construction techniques. This made all the difference when I
made up the real jacket.  
My darts on the test version didn’t line up so I knew I needed to make these better in the real version.

This fabric is soft and I knew that when I made the trousers last month so it’s great for summer. Jackets are a statement piece so I fully interfaced this fabric so it keeps its shape for years to come. You can see how I did this hereor in the Minerva Crafts sewing tutorials section.

The pattern has a faux pocket so I decided to add zipper pockets in the waistline seam. The technique used is here or go to the Minerva sewing tutorials section.

I made the centre back fold a centre back seam to add shaping for my sway back and I’ve written some details about sway back adjustments here, here and in the Minerva sewing tutorials section.

The sleeve shaping seemed a bit high under the arm so I graded it to a 10.
The shoulder line is longer than I need so I have taken off 1.5 cm.

The two piece sleeve uses easing instead of a dart at the elbow.
This added finish is something I do a lot now. It looks cleaner on the inside.
Oh. There are lots of techniques you can add to a jacket like pad stitching. During the collar construction I did add pad stitching to the under collar to give to collar more body. The details are here and in the Minerva sewing tutorials section.
Vicki picked the button for me this time. She’s got a good eye for detail. I found it hard to choose from the huge range of buttons on the Minerva Crafts website. Thanks again Vicki.

I bought the invisible zips locally because it was a WIP decision.

Did you notice the top I’m wearing? I’ve used the left- over knit from my summer dress to make a simple shell top using New Look 6977. I cut it on the bias for interest or because ‘I thought it was a good idea at the time’.
Thanks again to Minerva for being supportive of my sewing habit. If you feel inspired to make this dress and jacket for summer (your summer), hop over and grab your fabric and notions today.
Enjoy the break everyone. I certainly will. See you again in 2014!!!