Coats

Two years ago I developed a bunch of Trench coat sewalong posts for McCalls 5525 

I still wear my trench and it’s also a PR favouriteSo now I’m working on a couple of coats/jackets for a change. Not quick to make but rewarding to have as warm layers in the winter. Our winter lasts for all of ‘5 minutes’ so I have to make these fast.

Jackie is one of them – and it’s on sale now. 

source

Jackie has classic lines and is semi-fitted. It’s a cool throw-over layer and has some detailing that can be achieved if you want to add to your sewing skills. Just think of this as a ‘bit more straight stitching’.

The other jacket I’m making is Vogue 8732 by the talented Claire Shaeffer as my next Minerva make. 

source

Claire’s jacket is unlined and the pocket construction has a lot of detailing. But see the forgiving back pleat and front pleats. 


I’ve 

  • tested the jacket pleats and taken out some of the centre back fullness 
  • adjusted the shoulder line and done the roll-shoulder adjustments to the yoke pieces. 
  • left the jacket length as is to beat the cold. 
  • decided to not add the top pockets because I don’t need pockets on my chest
  • checked the sleeves and lowered the sleeve base curve by 1.5cm. You can see the pulling of the sleeve base on the picture above at the back. But it’s a very simple curve change, so I’ll show you that in the construction post.
  • kept the pockets on my hips. 
Here’s a WIP peek at the jacket. Fabric available at Minerva Crafts UK.

I’m also binded the seam finishes on the front facing and hem. Yes. I’ve been using a lot of bias binding at Chez Velosewer. It’s been a bias binding making hive all year really.