Sway back basics

When you make a top/blouse/jacket, does the fabric pool at the back around your waist?

Do you make the above sway back adjustment either above or below your waist? In my case I tend to make this change above the waist and I’ll also be making a second adjustment below the waist.

In Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Palmer and Pletsch, they suggest the adjustment (tuck) can be made either higher or lower than the waist. They even suggest making 2 small tucks.

So if the fabric pools above your waist, here’s how you start.

On this mini block, I’ve drawn a horizontal line above the waist, where I think the fabric pools the most. Everyone is different so you may need to take photos or grab a friend to help you figure out where the fabric pools the most.

After looking at the pool of fabric, the pool of fabric can be pinned at that point and I need to take out 1.5cm of fabric. Above I’ve folded out 1.5cm above the waistline.

But the centre back still needs to be the same length as the original pattern. On this pattern the centre back is a seam and not a fold.
If the centre back is a fold on your pattern, add seam allowance so you can shape this area better. That’s what I do for knit and woven tops.

So the centre back is now the same length as the original pattern and the dart is still the same length too.

Here’s the before and after shot of making a sway back adjustment to this knit top. The fullness was taken out above the waist.

This pattern needs a second smaller sway back adjustment below the waistline, just as Palmer and Pletsch suggested.

Green jeans v8774

While I was working in Adelaide there were quiet times when i just sewed with my travel machine. I took the basics with me and when DH visited, he had more supplies from my sewing room to keep me busy. He’s such a good man.
Jeans are part of my pants journey I am enjoying. I’m now enjoying the detailing and getting the fit right. When I’m out and about, I check out the back pocket stitching on everyone’s rear. It’s just for stitching ideas – truly. I spied one ladies brand new jeans with beautiful stitching but the RTW jeans were clearly splitting at the CB seam. 

Fit adjustments:
1. Sway back adjustment of the centre back seam on the yolk, the waistbank and back pants pattern.
2. Deeper crotch curve
3. Wider back leg length for both legs. My right thigh is wider than my left thigh.

Alterations:
1. Front pocket was extended to the zipper so it also acts as a stay.
2. Belt carriers were sewn at the waist band instead of on the width of the back yolk.

Rivets:
These came from DK Fabrics in Adelaide. They have a slight design on them but they are definitely silver and shiny. So the jeans button is also silver and shiny.
Back pocket stitching:
I’ve used the Vogue template and a close but wide zigzag stitch.

Topstitching:
This was something I improvised. I’ve combined two green threads through one needle for topstitching. I wasn’t able to find topstitching thread while I was away. By the time I came home, I had to continue to use this method of topstitching.
Bling – nil:
I’m sticking with colour rather than bling. I can sing, but I don’t bling.

I love how these fit and hug me. I do expect these jeans will soften and begin to bag over time so I now need to find a couple of tops from my wardrobe that I can team with these. I’ve been on a green binge for a while.