Jackie: welt pockets

If you’ve already made the buttonholes, these pockets will be a breeze to sew.

Here are you pocket pieces ready to work with.

Mark the pocket with the pocket template.

I’ve then stitched around the pocket markings. Here’s the front view.

Here’s the back view.

The welt pieces are then sewn together and turned to the right side.

Here are the pocket back pieces with welt. 

Pin the pocket pieces to the coat and pin down the full pieces so they don’t slide under and get caught up when sewing. I’ve had this happen to me before. #sadface.

Before I cut the jacket pocket, I check the pieces were sewn on properly.

If there’s a bit that wasn’t sewn on properly, I’ll resew this piece. No unpicking necessary.

Then I cut the fabric and pull through the pocket pieces. 

This bit is fiddly so I’ve used the diagram so you can see that you capture the cut ends and sew them flat to the pocket pieces before you finish sewing the pocket bag.

Here’s the finished product.

And that’s it for making welt pockets with the welt piece machine sewn onto the coat.

Sew Grateful – Minoru #2

This post is for Deb’s Sew Grateful week projects made using others tutorials or posts. Most of this Minoru was sewn following Tasia’s tutes and using PUL fabric. This version was my first experience using showerproof fabric. The listing of finished Minorus are on this post from over 60 sewers.

Here’s a link to my first Minoru (below). This version continues to be a well worn and much-loved  jacket.
Last week I gathered my notions for a showerproof Minoru and got started. I bought the 2 zips I needed from MyHung Parramatta – $1 each. 
On the weekend our summer weather was cool and changeable so I spent the time to sew in 5 zippers before the main construction steps. The pattern only requires 2 zips.

– Two internal zippers on the inside pockets
– Two zippers on the outside welt pockets
– One long zipper on the collar to store the hood.
The 6th zip is the 70cm front zip. I sewed that in on Tuesday night using a zipper foot.

Using run-of-the-mill sticky tape is worthwhile when sewing PUL.
The Minoru doesn’t have external pockets and the internal pockets are designed to have velcro closures. I added the external pockets because that’s what I want in a casual jacket.
I’ll have to work on inserting zippers into pockets a bit more. You can see I learnt very little from a zipper workshop I went to last year.

The lining is a polyester chiffon remnant for the body and a rayon remnant for the sleeves. That’s all I had in my stash but the colours were the same. Both are remnants from Pitt Trading.

I got excited that these pockets worked.
I’ve used the rayon as bias binding feature around the internal pockets and along the inside of zipper placket. This is a finish I enjoy wearing.
I took this shot so you can see the fine, soft gathers.
 Sewing PUL:
  • This is the first time I’ve used PUL showerproof fabric – bought from Green Beans Aust
  • The fabric base is a knit structure but the showerproof side is like rubber. At least that’s how it reacted to the iron XD
  • PUL is very easy to sew – just don’t pull it to hard when you’re sewing it.
  • When you sew with it, creases appear but don’t be fooled by the fabric.
  • And lower the feed dogs on your machine 1 notch so you can control the fabric flowing through the machine.
  • You might think sewing PUL is overwhelming. It’s doable.

Rain proofing:
For details on how to make your rainproof jacket more rainproof and profession, go to, Caroline of Little Package. She did this guest useful post during the Minoru Sewaholic Sewalong last year. Caroline really knows her stuff. she’s smart, practical and adventurous.
And Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn has also perfected rain proofing jackets.

m5525 – hip pockets

Do you add welts to pockets on your hips if you really don’t want to draw attention to your hips. Common sense dictates that you wouldn’t but I have. My boss often says common sense isn’t that common. I know he was talking to me:)

Issue 1
On this pattern, the pocket placement sits on my thighs. Who does such a thing? They now sit at my tummy level.

Issue 2
I got confused by the pattern instructions. The pattern picture shows the pocket welts pointing to the centre front. The instructions show them pointing to the side seams. There’s also a button on the pocket welt. The decisions when you’re doing detailing while you sew takes time. I pondered over this issue for at least 3 days before ripping them out.

Issue 3
Sharon reminded me that the reason you do a toile is to test out the pattern. Head slap moment in a series of head slap moments. I’ve tucked the welt into the pocket for a sleeker look.
Issue 4
I used red lining for both sides of the pocket bag. The red peeked through quiet a bit so I’ve now used the fashion fabric for the back pocket bag that you’d normally see.
I have renewed my friendship with my seam ripper.
The beauty of changing the pocket on this coat is they are built into the seam, so I didn’t cut into the trench coat fabric like I would have with a traditional welt pocket on a coat. Phew!
Sharon’s trench progress
Sharon’s trench journey is just starting. I did say that this trench sewalong has no time limit so please don’t think that you need to start or even make a trench unless you want to. Sharon has chosen this Burda pattern.
When you go to her blog, you’ll see her fabric choices and learn that there are lots of detailing options to make – or not make. That’s your choice.
From the years that we’ve known each other, Sharon is very detailed and a dedicated sewer so you’ll learn lots from her posts. Among her decisions/tasks, she has to decide to use this double breasted option or adjust it as single-breasted.
When I converted my McCalls 5525 trench from double to single-breasted I folded out the excess from the centre front piece, front facing and then recheck the collar and collar band.
These are the trenchcoat posts:

Trenchcoat sewing
Jalie 2680: city coat trench
McCalls 5525: single breast trench
McCalls 5525: a hood in the collar
McCalls 5525: pockets
McCalls 5525: shoulder detailing
McCalls 5525: bound buttonholes
McCalls 5525: belt carriers
McCalls 5525: finished

Pockets, welts, zips

After admiring a few finished Minoru jackets (Biblioblog), there were comments the jacket might benefit from having external pockets (Rocketsews) on the front. Hidden zippered welt pockets were an idea Alison had so that’s what I’ve done on this trial jacket. As a fair weather cyclist, zippered pockets are a useful feature. I’ve done inseam pockets before and they are easy to do by don’t hold the garment shape that well. 

The jacket now has 6 zippers in it. Yep. 1 zipper for the hood (View A), 1 on front closure, 2 zippers for the internal pockets and 2 zippers for the external pockets. Yes Lena, I’ve learnt lots and I  really needed to be ‘awake’ when I attempted this without the full instructions. I did have welt pocket instructions but not with a zipper included. The instructions for inserting a zipper in the collar were a good practice before attempting the external zipper welt pockets.
The pic above is the wrong side view of the inside pocket WIP.
Now the fabric seems shower proof and it has some stretch which becomes annoying attempting to sew a clean line. So I’ve used armoweft to reinforce the pocket opening and seam tape to reinforce the stitching lines on the pocket opening. There were still slight puckers.

On the left is the finished inside zip pocket.
Below are the initial stitching marks for the welt pocket and reinforcing on the wrong side; welt placement; pocket bag placement and the final result.
The fiddliest part was sewing the zip on before you sew up the pocket bag. 
Get the basic welt pocket instructions before you attempt this at home.


Below is welt placement along the welt pocket stitching guide.

Below you can see the two pocket bag pieces. One pocket bag piece is a cotton woven and the other pocket bag piece is the fashion fabric.
Above is the zipper placement, once you’ve cut open the pocket line and pulled in the pocket bag pieces.
So the end result is a welt pocket with a hidden zip.  Yep, I’ve sewn in 6 zips. What was I thinking.
Ta dah.