Starting to feel Spring

One Saturday morning the Cloth Shop Ivanhoe had a photo of a poppy fabric in a blue and red colourway. This is the same fabric that Kate Middleton has worn.

I decided to go for my usual Saturday morning ride but while I was training I just couldn’t get that fabric image out of my mind. As soon as we got home and got myself organised for the day, I gave the Cloth Shop Ivanhoe a call.

Now if that’s not being dedicated to fabric, I don’t know what is. Kim was a lot of fun to talk to. When I occasionally visit Melbourne, I try to visit their store because they have a high end range of fabrics and they usually have fabrics I can’t find locally.

Again I used New Look 6067 because I’d already adjusted this dress for my current shape and decided this version would be fully lined.

I’ve used a cotton poplin so the dress lining is firm even though this fabric is a stretch woven. 

Above is an inside view of the front pleating and darts before being lined.

My aim for fully lining this dress was to keep the dress structure firm but not tight.

This photo shows how I placed the print on the skirt. The 3 inverted pleats at the front waist don’t detract from the print.

I had a thing for piping and this WIP picture shows you the sleeves with red piping. The red is not exactly the same as the poppies but it works.

I follow the advice I’ve read in Threads magazine to keep stitching closer to the piping to keep the piping from looking twisted. This piping was premade from Minerva Crafts UK.

Long story short: I wore this dress out for a Friday night out and felt great. It’s Spring right!

PS: I did buy the blue poppy colourway fabric so I hope to have that made up in the coming weeks, using a different pattern New Look 6000 😉

Enjoy your week.

Poppies for Spring

John Kaldor microfibre fabric with poppies was my choice for this month’s Minerva Crafts UK project. It’s September and it’s also Spring so I’ve used New Look 6067 with 3/4 length sleeves.

This dress will be a ‘9to5’ workhorse dress because it’s shapely and work appropriate.

Above is the dress kit I ordered from Minerva Crafts.

After reading previous reviews of this pattern I decided to:

  • lower the neckline to necklace height
  • lower the v-opening
  • Line the bodice
  • interface the front neckline

I did test this pattern and used size 14 but found that I could size the bust down to size 10 which I’ve done on this version.

Basic alterations:
  • Forward shoulder adjustment
  • shortened the skirt
  • raised the centre back pleat 
Below are the bodice pieces showing the shoulder seams adjusted and the front facing lowered as I had lowered the neckline opening by 3cm.
The other issue I found was the back neckline was high so I dropped this by 3cm as well. 

I did grade the bodice so the bust was size 10 and the waist was size 14. You can see I redrew the back neck facing.

Below is the finished back neckline.

I shorten skirt pieces initially below my ‘derriere’ but then I had to shorten the hem after the test dress by 5 cm. I didn’t want to waste my poppy print fabric. 

It looks like this pattern was printed in 2011 so it’s not new and has been road tested by alot of good sewers.

What I was able to do is add a hint of piping at the neckline.

You can see I checked how this looked before I progressed with making this dress.

I like how it worked out and didn’t add too much weight to this neckline.

There is a lot of hand sewing involved with the lined bodice and the skirt hem. The trick that works for me is to ‘wax the threads’.

Lots of threads. If you’re technical, I start of with a dozen waxed threads. I usually need another two or three to sew on the hook and eye at the top of the zipper and then to sew up any loose ends.

Thanks again Minerva Crafts UK to this new Spring dress.