Minerva make – Black is back baby!

I’ve been wanting a ‘dressy’ pair of black jeans for a while. Minerva Crafts have the fabric and hardware so you can get everything you need in one place. The black denim from Minerva paired well with Vogue 8774.

Winnie made her fab Jamie jeans last month and they look great. Kate also made wonderful boyfriend jeans too.


It’s the jeans hardware that is difficult to get in one place. How and where you apply the hardware is where you make your jeans your own. 
 I’ve made jeans before and they were casual so I could wear sneakers with them. These are the dressy pair because the hem is lower and I can wear these with heels. These shoes needed an outfit 🙂
I’ve put the rivets at the top of the back pockets and on the front pockets.

Here’s a close up of the rivets and the pin placed there the centre back belt loop will be positioned.
One of the interesting features of this pattern is the back belt loops are sewn into the base of the back yolk.
And I’ve used the pocket stitching template for the back pocket stitching.
Again, here’s where you can put your own stitching design on the back pockets. I’ve seen back pocket stitching that’s gone onto the jeans fabric too.

I did a fair bit of jeans back pocket research at the local second hand clothes markets and the creative options are endless. Fabric painting or adding other rivets anywhere are all options you can use. Amy used the skull fabric in her Preppy skull dress.
Did you notice the additional pocket I’ve placed on the side seam above the knee? It’s a cargo pants feature pocket without the bulk.
The Minerva kit has everything you need for these jeans – Vogue 8874, Top stitching thread, great black non-stretch denim, woven interfacing, the inside skull print fabric, a very secure metal zipper and the ideal metal jeans button and rivets. 
A metal button with ridges is less likely to pop when you sneeze while wearing these jeans #embarrassingexperiencetalking. 
The key thing with these jeans is the pattern is designed for non-stretch denim. Non-stretch denim is cheap to buy and it holds you in. It truly does. 

See how I’ve taken the pocket from the side seam to the zipper? This is what ‘holds’ you in at the front. This ‘stay’ keeps you in place. Nifty huh? No need to wear spanks.

Below is how I adjusted the pocket to form the waist stay.

Above is my usual sway back adjustment and increased thigh room #cyclistthighs.

Now you can see why I wanted a dressy pair of black jeans to get me from summer to autumn in one make!
These tops are New Look 6940 and New Look 6149. 

If you haven’t been to the Minerva Crafts blog, you’ll be amazed and how much easier it is to use and find out what everyone’s been doing. There are over 30 of us who do the crafts we love with the support of Minerva Crafts UK.

Grainline Maritime shorts #1

It’s still summer and it’s about time I made these shorts. Everyone else who’s made them, loves them, lives in them until they make their second pair. Then continues to live in these shorts.
It’s true. Google Grainline Maritime shorts and see the great makes. Lizzy is a shorts Wiz including her 3 pairs of Maritime shorts.


A bit of leftover mustard drill from last year’s mustard skinny jeans and some soft printed gauze gratefully received from the generous Gabrielle of Upsewlate were my first pair of Maritime short. Have you see her Mini Moss skirt? It’s really cool


The fly front zipper method is where most sewers have decided to look elsewhere for their instructions and I used to go to Sandra Betzina’s video tute. The zipper construction is done with the pieces flat. 

This was my first sway back attempt. But I redid the sway back  adjustment.

I changed the construction so I could sew the fly front zipper in with the front pieces laying kinda flat. 


1, Make the front pockets as per Jen’s instructions. 
2, Sew the front centre seam together to the zipper point. 
3, Sew in the fly front zipper.
I followed all of Jen’s construction details. Lizzy changed the construction a bit to get the fit right.

Here’s the second sway back attempt and the centre back excess is marked. 

The back of the first pair were a teeny bit too low at centre back so I did my usual sway back adjustment on the pattern and saved this first version by adding a jeans style back yoke piece.

After wearing them, the centre back piece worked and they were comfy for wear. I have a few RTW cargoes that are now 2 sizes too big and I promised myself to wear clothes that fit. Even casual weekend clothes that fit.

The mustard colour drill does nothing for my skin tone so let’s forget this test pair exists. This pair has now been published on the Monthly Stitch collective for February’s challenge.


A second pair (the real pair) is the next post…



By the way, Seamstress Erin pointed me to a site about ‘Real body’ tracing. While I’m not brave to take part in this initiative, I am happy to adjust patterns to fit my shape in all its iterations and share that knowledge here.