A hidden pocket

I’ve always been interested in the patterns developed by Saf-t-pockets. I made my version of the T-shirt Trifecta a while ago.

They have a pants pattern in three styles for wovens but I wanted to use ponte for travel pants with a hidden pocket for travel. 

So decided to make Silhouette Patterns 3011 Nanette’s yoga pants.

This version was made last year. The fabric used here is a light weight knit with spandex.
So where would you add the hidden pocket? 
What would you make the pocket bag with under ponte? 
Would you use an exposed zipper; and invisible zipper; or a lapped zipper?

The easy decisions were to answer 
  • add the hidden pocket at the front waistband; 
  • use an invisible zipper; 
  • have the zipper close to the hip.

I’m right handed so the pocket should sit on the left.

But how would you do this?
You’ll need fabric for your pocket bag, the pants pattern and fabric (cut to size) and an invisible zipper.
Step 1: Use your invisible zipper foot and sew one side of the zipper to the trouser.
Step 2: Sew the pocket bag to this side of the zipper tape. Sew through the trouser seam allowance and the zipper tape.
Step 3: Sew the waistband on the trousers stopping at either end of the zipper. There will be a gap at either end. You’ll sew this up at the end.

Step 4: Using the invisible zipper foot, sew the remaining side of the zipper to the waistband.
Step 5: Using a normal zipper foot, sew the remaining bits of the waistband to the trouser seam.

Step 6: Using the normal zipper foot, attach the pocket bag to the remaining side of the zipper. Sew through the waistband seam allowance and zipper tape.

Step 7: Sew closed the zipper bag pieces. I’ve used the overlocker for this final step.

You now have your very own invisible pocket!!
The zipper is closed above. 
Can you see it?

The pocket is open. Can you see it yet?

Can you see it now with the scissor handle peeking through?

The fabric and invisible zipper were supplied by Minerva Crafts UK. You’ll see the finished yoga pants later this week as my May Minerva make.

Zipped up

While planning to make Vogue 8931 I wanted to include some pockets. This pattern has fake pockets or no pockets. I’ve added pockets in the front waist seam and I’ll show you how.

I used three sewing feet to achieve this pocket – an invisible foot, a zipper foot and a normal sewing foot.
With pins, I marked where the zipper would start and finish on both pieces. I made sure the zipper wouldn’t interfere with buttonholes, centre front lines or seam allowances. 
I pinned the zipper in place and made sure the zipper closed at the front, so you can see the zipper pull. The choice of how you want to open/close the zipper is yours.
Here’s where the invisible zipper foot helps sew the zipper on, stitching under the zipper coils.
Then it was time to match the other side of the zipper and darts.

Then I closed the top and bottom front pieces using a zipper foot. I sewed from the zipper to the edges to ensure the seam sewing matched – no puckers.

Here’s the pocket bag, sewn onto the zipper seam allowances and then the side seams are sewn closed. Again, my measurement of the pocket bag was just deep enough for a card and some money to buy coffee in the morning. It’s more aesthetic than functional.

And here’s how it looks on the front. Phew!
Don’t just look at what I’ve done, go to some real references.
Singer Tailoring – 1988,
Jackets for real people by Alto, Neall and Palmer – 2006,
New Simplicity Sewing Book – 1979