Jackie: Lining, collar and facings

Lining:
This black acetate is a medium weight fabric and will add to the coat weight. It’s lovely and smooth.
Sewing black fabric can be a pain to see so I use a dark contrasting colour thread to help me see and unpick seams easily. I’ve used brown thread on black in the lightened pic below.

I use the pins to remind me to stop and leave a side seam gap for later. Can you see what I’ve done? The crosswise pins act as my reminder to leave a gap.

The lining sews together really quickly and is then easy to sew onto the facings.

Collar and facings
Preparing the collar and facings starts off lovely, then becomes messy, then is lovely again.

The back and front facings are sewn together. That’s looking clean enough.

Then I added a trim along the facing edge that joins the lining. This is not part of the instructions. This is my ‘take’ on making jackets.

Here’s where the mess begins.

I’ve trimmed the collar to facing and the cut away pieces always make a mess but this trimming helps these layers to sit flat. 

If you look closely, I’ve used two layers of interfacing on the collar. This keeps the collar structure without it being too stiff.
And here’s the inside view of the collar sewn onto the jacket. Messy looking but it all sits flat.

This story does have a collar and lining happy ending. It’s neat and clean.

 Here’s how the collar with lining now sits nicely. The black trim worked too.

I found some Craftsy writers that have some good information to keep in mind when you’re at this stage.

  • The beauty of understitching facings by Linda Reynolds on Craftsy.
  • Andrea Brown on Craftsy shows how to sew a double welt pockets the way Roberta taught me years ago when she used to teach at the Sydney McCalls warehouse.

    Jackie: Proportions

    A lot has been written about proportions for sewists.


    Jackie is semi-fitted. This means there is room to wear layers underneath so the key fitting area is at the shoulders and neckline. 
    Threads has a good article about adjusting patterns for your size. It’s a tried and tested article.


    Petite
    BurdaStyle has a good post about petite adjustments
    Craftsy writer Julia posted some details about petite pattern sizing
    Bunny at LaSewist petites her patterns from the word go.

    Personally I’ll check a few points on the pattern and see if they match with my proportions
    – shoulder to bust; shoulder to waist, 
    – neck to shoulder
    – shoulder to hips
    – pocket placement.

    One thing to keep in mind, these are not rules. If you love jackets with amazing features, factor these features in. I did a Google search on ‘oversize badly made jackets’ and frankly they all looked great to me.

    Jackie can be your statement jacket of the season if you use oversized collars and pockets.

    Talls
    BurdaStyle has a post about shortening and lengthening patterns.
    Adjusting patterns for tall people isn’t my area of expertise but there are lots of sewing bloggers who are.


    Lena has already covered the basics for adding and removing length to your pattern.


    Proportions
    Pattern changes to balance this jacket for your shape is what I focus on. 

    Bust darts
    All I’m going to say here is wear the right support. Check where your bust sits and then adjust the dart for your reality. I reduced the dart by 2.5cm.

    Pockets
    A standard pocket can be too deep for small hands. A standard pocket might not be big enough for your needs ie, wallet, phone, organiser, wads of cash.

    And standard pocket placement can be lower or higher than your arm’s reach.

    On skirts and pants, I shorten my pockets. Basic pocket patterns tend to end at mid-thigh on me, when they should end at the top of your thigh. So I tend to cut them back so they can at least fit a credit card in my pocket ie. no longer than 6cm or 2 1/2″ if the pocket starts at my waist.

    source

    The pocket bag is a bit deep for me so I’ve skimmed 2.5cm off the pocket base. When I make Jackie again, I’ll place the pocket 2.5cm towards the side seams.

    Collars
    Again, you might have a Cleopatra neckline so your collar needs to be wider.

    source

    I tend to slim back my collars so they don’t cut into my chin ie, lack of neck:)


    I lowered the collar 1cm from the top so that it covers my neck in the cold but not feel like I’m being strangled. However I took another 0.5cm off the collar when I sewed the facing to the collar. 

    Note: I dropped the buttonhole on the collar by 1cm so it would still sit centred on the slimmed collar. This is a decision you can either make or disregard.

    Sleeve cuff
    This is another proportion decision you might consider.

    You can make your sleeve cuff wider for a feature or slim it back. The choice is yours. I kept the sleeve cuff and kept it wide. This doesn’t affect how I wear Jackie and the sleeve cuff is part of it’s style.

    Too much to take in?If this is all too much information to digest, make a test version out of calico and see how the test jacket fits on you. This approach is the safest method and you can practice those bound buttonholes and welt pockets with less stress.

    If you have very little spare time to test the pattern, measure the widths and length of your suggested size minus the seam allowance and check those measurements on you. This takes a whole lot less time to achieve than making a test version. This is a risky approach, so take all the measurements twice!