Tech post – Vogue 1407

This pattern Vogue 1407 is definitely eye catching. 

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I liked how it gives the illusion of a waistline. So can you see why I sewed up those shapewear pieces from Jalie and CJ patterns last week? They are my ‘dress insurance’ pieces. 
The other ‘dress insurance’ I needed was to test this dress out with some stash fabric before I cut into my Minerva Crafts fabrics.
The test version has some purple stash fabric with a good amount of stretch, white mystery knit lining and some Tessuti remnant ponte.

Above is the dogtooth print from Minerva Crafts. I was able to lining up the front pieces correctly once I’d made the test dress. 

The problem with the test dress fabric was the purple fabric was very stretchy. There wasn’t much stability in it which is great but not so great when you sew in a zipper. Hence a bit of hand stitching. I could have made it without the zipper but I was testing the pattern – so the zipper stayed.

Lori from Girls in the Garden has made a great version with no zipper.

The zipper was a success. The centre back seam had a curve in it so I didn’t need to adjust it too much more for my curves.

And I think the pattern placement worked too. There were still some additional pattern tweaks to do – roll shoulder, neckline gap and hand stitching the lining on the next version.

So with the pattern sorted, I was ready for the real dress. You’ll see that later this week.

Pants – Vogue 8503

There was plenty beige fabric to make pants and a skirt, so I’ve chosen a simple flat-fronted pant with back zipper. This pattern has had a few reviews on PR but mainly for the top and not for the pants. I bought this pattern because of the top, but have yet to make it up.

 

Below is the leg width adjustment and hem adjustment. I’ve taken out 5 cm (2 inches) from the width at the bottom of the pants. The hem has also been adjusted for flat shoes. The pattern envelope indicated I’m a 14, but the pattern (with ease) indicated a size 10, so that’s what I made up.
I still had to do a sway back adjustment. I’ve since added a hook and eye to the top of the zipper so it won’t show. This is a normal zipper, not an invisible zip.
Below is the basic sway back adjustment. I also lowered 2.5 cm off the centre front waistline.

The waistline has a facing so this was a ‘no-tears’ pants pattern. The other factor that helped was the loose weave and softness of the fabric.
If I make these pants again, I’ll add in the tapered width to see if the drag lines at the bottom disappear. As a set this is jacket and pants look a bit dull so I’ll have to wear a bright top in future.