Lining a pleated skirt

Sewalong hosted by Salixsews and Septemberfaden

#so50sewalong – Making the single pleated skirt can be done without needing to make any changes. A few of us tookpart in #sewpportukraniandesigners hosted by Helga Salixsews and Nicole Septemberfaden for Tatyana @factorem_imago_patterns

Image owned by Tatyana

If you want your skirt to suit your shape, or work well for the fabric you choose, then there are some adjustments or steps to take to make this skirt work for your needs.

The first skirt, ready to wear everyday.

My first test skirt was made from a cotton fabric. The seam finishes I used was overlocking and I used iron on interfacing on the skirt facings only.

A very quick prep for the first test skirt

When I tried on the first test skirt the centre back seam sat above my natural waistline.

The skirt I decided I would then make after this first version, is made using a wool suiting. It’s light weight and the weave is closely woven but it does fray. For me, this meant I should line this skirt. How would I do that? Good question.

Helga did a post about using an embroidered fabric and how Helga determined where the embroidered fabric. This gave me a useful clue about how I would prepare a suitable lining.

The skirt facings were my starting point. On the pattern, the left side of the centre back seam has the full length of the skirt. After lowering the centre back seam by 2.5cm and increasing the waistline by 2.5cm, I roughly traced off the back skirt lining pattern, adding roughly 1.5cm seam allowance.

Tracing the back skirt lining following with left side of the original pattern

The front skirt lining pattern was then traced off the front skirt pattern, using the front skirt facing as my guide. Note that the skirt front lining does not have the single pleat on my version.

This tracing/drafting worked and when you have a look at all the other versions of this pattern on instagram, you’ll learn so much more about finishing this skirt; about adding pockets; and how to wear this skirt, no matter what your life is like. There are over 100 posts to check out.

The inside hem finishes

I finished the waistband properly, because it did fits my current shape. I was lucky to have an afternoon to cut bias strips in dark blue to finish the outer fabric hem edge. Machine sewing the lining was a breeze.

Wool version fully lined

If you are looking to support Ukraine Digital Sellers, go to the website Teresa Hardy developed and keeps updated.

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