Quart Coat: Autumn

Finally Autumn has arrived and I’ve jumped into coat making – Paulinealice Quart coat.

I hope you’ve already read Sewmanju’s Quart Coat review. Or maybe Claire’s review. There are a bunch of great Quart Coats around now. Beth’s reviews have lots of good.


Paulinealice Quart Coat is certainly distinctive and requires good sewing skills to achieve but she’s done the leg work with her pattern pieces (separate lining pieces with wiggle room) and since the Quart Coat was launched last year, Pauline has developed a few more distinct styles from this pattern.


Did you see her biker jacket version? She’s such a helpful designer that Pauline has posted a ‘how to‘ so you can create your own biker jacket version.


Pitt Trading

The first Autumn fabric haul at Pitt Trading was too good to ignore and coats are something I adore making because of the work that goes into them. Each coat extends my sewing skills – or at least that’s what motivates me to keep making coats and jackets. Thank you again Pitt Trading for these fabrics and notions.

If you’re looking at planning posts, Sewmanju, Claire and Beth have great posts to learn from.


Dualling coats

I did test this pattern on some navy wool fabric I purchased in New York two years ago. Let me clarify this. I wanted to test and practice bound buttonholes, the pleats, check the centre back seam and following the sleeve zipper instructions correctly on the real version. 

The test navy coat

I do make a lot of mistakes and my handy unpicker saved me on a number of occasions as I wanted to get the stitching right. Having a test coat prepped at the same time as the real coat let me relax a bit when I started working on the ‘real’ fabric. So I was sewing ‘in parallel’.

Once I had constructed the sleeves and bound buttonholes I got stuck into the real coat. The real fabric from Pitt Trading was much easier to work with. There are lines in the weave so I used this as an additional sewing guide.


Bound buttonholes
The technique Pauline suggests is easy to follow. You can make this coat without bound buttonholes but I decided to include these. After practising on the navy test version, my bound buttonholes became more accurate. Both fabrics had varying thicknesses and movement so when I sewed machine buttonholes on the epaulets, they were a welcome relief. Making bound buttonholes means I have to be accurate (#anxiety) and hand stitch them closed (#sorefingers). 


Swayback adjustment

On the pattern, the centre back is cut on the fold. To cater for my sway back, I’ve created a centre back seam to follow my curve ie no fabric pooling. Yay.

Epaulets

I love epaulets. I added a longer epaulet to the centre back waist as an additional military feature. Pauline suggests using the lining as the underside of the epaulets. I did this on the grey version but I used a lighter weight dark purple for the navy version.


Pleating

On the test version, the pleats threw me. They have to point to the back so by the time I made them with the real fabric, they worked out.
The ironing press made these pleats a whole lot sharper. I’ll be using the old ironing press again for a future pleated project #hint.
As Beth did, I initially sewed the lining onto the pleats and then I took them off.


Petite change

The only change was to make the pocket bag shallower, but still keeping the bag part, if that makes sense. 
I left the coat length, sleeve length and collar width as is. When is frightfully cold, this coat style is going to come into it’s own. 

The main part I focused on was getting the shoulder positioning and kept the lengths as is.

Excuse my ‘zipper in sleeve’ joy.

Zippers
Any jacket with zippers on the sleeves has me at ‘hello’. 
I collect unusual zippers and buckles because they can be difficult to get when you actually need them. These zips were just what I needed for the navy version.
Pitt Trading provided me with their zippers for the grey version.

Navy coat lining.

Lining and trims
Let’s just say, great colours under a dark cover keeps me motivated.


The fabric used for the grey version wasn’t lining fabric but when I saw it on the shop floor at Pitt Trading both Sylvia and I loved it as lining.


Hems

Pauline suggests interfacing the hems and this gives a much sharper finish. I know a good press at the dry cleaner will make this coat look less home made. 

Thank you Pitt Trading for providing the fabrics and notions for my grey coat. Their new website is being filled with fabric every week.
Pauline’s done it again with a lovely and unique coat pattern.

Kyle in the city

In case you don’t already know Kyle of Vacuuming the lawn, she’s a sewing blogger who sews a lot and is know by lots of sewers and fabric store owners.

Our Mood purchases – pic taken by Meg

Kyle has her finger on the sewing pulse. That’s how I noticed her blog many moons ago. That and her great passion for sewing, flowers and food. Chicken pot pies and mac n cheese.

Swatch wasn’t at Mood when we visited. Neither was Tim Gunn. We visited 7 stores in 1 day.

I’m still reeling from our NY shopping day. Where do I start?

Was because when we met up we just had a ball?

Was it because the Mac n cheese at lunch was so good – just like Kyle had mentioned on her blog?

Kyle is the most organised sewing shopper on the planet. I’m biased.
We were high fiveing throughout our sewing shopping day.

Kyle is great at tweeting too. Kyle wore her McCalls 6078 cowl top and J Sterns design jeans. Following her sewing experiences on her blog has been a joy to support.

Kyle with her Tim Tams and the bag she made for PR weekend.

Here is Kyle’s write up about our shopping day in New York. I’m so glad we went to Kashi first at Metro Textiles. 

Standing with Kyle, Kashi and Barbara – pic taken by Kashi’s great assistant

At his store we met Barbara, another PRer. Kashi was really warm and accommodating. He does know his fabric.

While the three of us sewers were chatting all things sewing, Kashi was showing me of silk prints so I could see them, tell him how many yards I wanted and still keep chatting with Kyle and Barbara. We had a lot to chat about. 

Thanks for taking these pics Kashi. We were kacking ourselves (ie. having a ball).



A bit of everything from Kashi.
Mood purchases.
Fabric and notions from City Quilter. Can you spy the NY lamninated print here?

I took this pic to get my bearings during the week.

This is Kyle’s favourite row at Pacific Trimming. This store is 3 stores wide!!
The staff are very helpful and will let you know if they don’t have any notions you are looking for.

During my week I found True Mart on West 26th St and 7th Ave.

Searching for fabric around Rockafeller Centre…veering off course

I bought navy woollen fabric. The roll on the shop floor didn’t have enough length for a coat so I was given this end roll at a discount and then bought the full length I needed from a roll they had stored downstairs. 

About NY:
A week in NY isn’t enough even when staying in the garment district. Sightseeing time is at a premium. DH and I did cover 3 boroughs in one day on the subway. My DB and SIL were also in NY at the time. That turned out to be our family day out.

Carlo’s bakery was fun (1 hour wait) but the pizza place next door was amazing. The Puerto Rico parade on the Sunday was huge and its crowd on 5th Ave was truly impressive.

The wharf to Ellis Island re opens on 4th July.

DH and I spent an afternoon circling NY by ferry and we also did a hop on hop off bus tour and we saw a Broadway show.

Grand St in Chinatown had some fabric places too.



We got to the top of the Rock on a cloudy day after visiting Ground Zero.
So the NY Mets were thrashed at the Tuesday night game we saw. The Mets now my team.
What I loved was the whole experience from changing trains to get there with the St Louis fans, being part of the local crowd, watching the planes fly into LaGuardia Airport next door to eating real hot dogs and Crackerjacks.   
Kyle’s bag is now my Fashionary bag.

Thankfully Friday was Kyle in the city day shopping for fabric and notions. Lots of notions.

Here’s the mac n cheese I made on our first day home. Spicy ham and mushroom mac.

Total NY fabric weight tally  – 15 pounds. And I wore me-made clothes everyday.
It’s all about the fabric.