Wanda revisited

I always wonder if old patterns I made still work so when I was about to make this dress in silk, I thought I should make it in a fabric that was easier on my anxiety level.

Working with silk is always a raised anxiety level project so when I used this paisley damask fabric, the chill factor kicked in.

Piping worked again on the neckline at that the waistline too.

The bodice is fully lined for this version and I’ve hand sewn the hem.

This fabric didn’t need to be matched but all the seams match.
The key adjustment was made along the bust pleats. They are too wide so I had to hand stitch the outer bust pleat. It just looked weird – out of place.

Another dress pattern that works!
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Which way is up?

African wax prints are fun to work with especially if they’re colours you love and prints you find interesting.

I think this might be the last of the prints I bought this year, but then a new print might pop up in a couple of months time.

I’ve used the Deer and Doe Belladone basic bodice and drafted a V neckline.
On closer view, you can see the waistband follows the eye print.
There’s no matching at the back.

The back fit is however smooth and there’s a small back hem split.

I’ve used my basic pencil skirt pattern and used the pockets from the Belladone.
The print is so bold, you can’t really tell where the pockets are.
I bought this print from the LA fabric district two years ago so this is the best holiday souvenir.


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Gertie and a remnant

This dress is pieced together with remnants from fabric I bought from Pitt Trading.

Here’s the original dress I made from this remnant so you can see the original print.

I decided to use this print to test the bodice fit and construction of Butterick 6453.
I’ve used my basic pencil skirt pattern with the pockets from Deer and Doe Belladone skirt.

When I tackled these remnants, it took some time to decide on what pattern to use across the dress.

Looking at the bodice, I wasn’t sure this would work.
I didn’t have enough of the print to have it run the full width of the bodice.
These are the pencil skirt pieces I used.
Again I wasn’t sure how this would balance with the bodice.
At this point I sewed up the dress and did an initial bodice fit.
This was the moment I felt this dress might actually be a goer.
The pattern Butterick 6453 offers bodice facings. I’ve used calico to fully line the bodice.
The lining has plenty of boning in the seams so that it sits smoothly against my body sans bra.
See how it fits across the back bodice?
The side seams don’t match but they do fit snugly.

If you’re into detailing, you can see I’ve used a gold bias trim on the hem so the hemline looks consistent.

What you won’t be able to see are the bronze metal bra notions on the dress straps.

When Summer holidays kick in this year I think I’ll get a bit of wear from this dress.
Now to buy some fake tan spray.

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Decisions

Happy New Year to everyone. It’s been a big ‘get organised weekend’ (kitchen, bathroom, sewing room, pending US sewing trip) and eventually I did manage to make some progress on this one-shoulder dress. And I have an event to wear it to at the end of the month – yipee!
Below on the left is the first idea I had. The blue centre piece is on the back and the left is the front. I prefered the front, so I replaced the centre back piece with the pattern fabric. On the right is the other issue – I realised the centre front print was not in line with the flowers on the centre side pieces. I cut this dress out last year and this year is my year of ‘considering the details’ in life.

As you can see, on the left I replaced the centre back piece with the printed fabric and on the right I tipped the centre front upsidedown.
The built-in bust was way off the mark (no photo). It looked ‘un-real’, so the bra pieces were taken out! I wore a bandaue instead so my bodice went back to looking ‘natural’ not ‘Las Vegas showgirl’.

On the left the armhole will be finished with a bias strip in the printed fabric. On the right I’ve since adjusted the top of the zipper (see the yellow pin) to overcome the gap. The hemline was at the right level so I also need to handstitche the lined bodice and centre back vent. 

The printed fabric is a poly with spandex and the blue fabric is also a poly with no ease. I have some black strappy heels to get me through the event. Fingers crossed.