Dauntless jacket

Burda 7140 was my choice to make this jacket like those worn in ‘Divergent‘. 

This grey wool fabric and paisley lining are from Minerva Crafts UK and they’re great to sew and feel lovely.

With the prospect of Winter this jacket style is still dark and has a hint of red. Why be grey just because it’s Winter.

Vicki was generous with these fabrics so there’s a skirt underway.

The pattern

It took a test jacket to reveal a challenge sewing the front lining pieces.

The lining instructions were a bit odd. I couldn’t follow the order of construction because the instructions kept flipping between views.
So I went with simply prepping the bodice and peplum together for the main construction.

Burda does a great job with their pattern drafts and the test jacket was easy enough to conquer. I really didn’t want to waste this fabric supplied by Minerva Crafts so a test jacket took the pressure off this project.

Jackets with zippers are my fav too and I sew on the zipper before sewing the side seams so the fabric pieces were still flat.

I love the ‘sharp’
 style options in this pattern. 

Paisley lining
The paisley lining is lovely to work with and such a classic. They’ve only just brought these lining in so I made sure I could use this lining for this jacket. 

I’ll be using this paisley lining again for next month’s project. In the lining weave the threads are two colours used in the weave so these linings are versatile for lots of fabrics.

Pattern alterations 
I made the 12 at the bust to 14 size at the waist and hips with no alterations for the test version.

The test jacket fit well enough but I added 2cm on the peplum hems and removed 4 cm from the sleeve lengths. I also extended the raglan shoulder seam by 2cm so it matched my shoulders. 

The pockets were a must, so I grabbed the side front peplum piece to figure out how much room I had. Then I used my Clover curve template to develop this pocket pattern.

The raglan shoulder seam was a bit slim so I took out more seam allowance.
The sleeve width from the elbow to the wrist is size 10.

My original reason for using this pattern took a bit of thought to develop. Sewing the test jacket was worth doing so don’t rush this pattern if you want to make up. This style has quite a few style possibilities and can be made more ‘girlie’ if you want it to be.

Thank you Minerva Crafts UK.
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Jacket #3 – M4596

Trying to be photogenic
With DH away most of last week, I had time to play with this jacket. The days started to warm up last week so I freaked out and decided to finish this jacket asap.
Today it’s cold again so it was great to wear the jacket, after finishing the hand stitched hems after breakfast.
Yes I need a life.

The fabric is a soft thick woollen so the sleeves were easy to manipulate into the jacket body.
I’ve used sunsilky lining – my favourite – because it performs really well.
I’ve made this jacket in linen but on seeing the basic jacket basted together, before adding the sleeves, it was big and bulky.
side view
The body was 5cm too long at the front so I snipped away until it sat just above the crotch line.
Back view with additional darts
I’ve added in two additional darts in the back and the back sits really well. 
If I taper the front darts, the side pockets will sit open and not close properly.
You can see the pocket lining from the back in this picture.
The fabric is interfaced throughout with armoweft to help keep its shape.
The collar has pad stitching so that it sits up at the back neck.
I’ve resewed in the sleeves because they just wrong – too far down my arms.
I did use shoulder pads.
Now the sewn-in ribbon thread was the only way I could make the front opening sit properly. I initially used the ribbon on the collar and I realised this was the only method I could use to sew through a four bulky layers and avoid break more sewing machine needles.
I didn’t break any sewing machine needles this time. My fingers however are killing me.

The fabric is a remnant from a coat I made at least four years ago and I still can’t recall where I bought the fabric from.

If I attempt this jacket again, and I will, I’ll use zippers on the side pocket to make the jacket more figure hugging. I did a jacket stash count and there are four more jackets in the pipeline, but once the weather hots up again, they’re going into the “freezer.”
front view