Tech notes: Equestrian tail coat blouse

Here’s the Equestrian tail coat blouse that I wanted to create for my February Minerva make.

I decided to use a basic McCalls blouse pattern as the basis instead of finding the exact pattern.
So the test version above confirmed the fit and then I did a rough redraft of the neckline based on my line drawing.
Line drawings are not my forte but they help plan projects

I’ve folded the neckline to a v, then drafted new facings

There are no sleeves on the equestrian blouse, so bias made from the same polycotton fabric was used to finish the armholes.

These are the strips for the ruffle and pin tuck trims. The trim width was a ‘guestimate’.

Then I had to create the ruffle and pin tuck trim. 

The trim edging was roll-hemmed.

The trims took 3 hours to make. There was a lot of thinking and testing time involved.
The final hurdle was figuring out how/when to add these trims to the actual shirt. 

I’ve laid the trim over the test shirt above to get an idea of trim length required.

It’s all part of the fun:)

Above is the work in progress blouse. 

The toughest part wasn’t pinning the hem up for the hip detailing. The hardest decision was how to sew on the ruffle and pin tuck trim.

You’ll see the finished pieces later this week. 

Apologies to my dear IG peeps. You’ve already seen this blouse in the making. #Thursday!

Cardi – winter is over

While trying to make a shirtmaker dress work, I’ve finished a new cardi. Why? Because the dress toile is taking up a lot of thinking time and I needed a quick win to boost my confidence. Back to the cardi.

I’ve made this before and I know how the collar sits. The facing always seems too wide and I have now decided to take out a tuck out of the neckline to overcome it falling out all the time. The last time I made up this cardi, I used a contrasting facing and took advantage of it gaping.

At the PR weekend I learnt that I could wear brown (Deep warm), and I had a couple of pieces in my stash but I wasn’t quiet sure if I should invest the time to make up these pieces. So I now know I can do some bold and muted colours and this dark chocolate brown is one of my colour options so this is what I’ve come up with.

The ruffle pieces are 2inch strips cut on grain but roll hemmed on the overlocker with red thread. I didn’t have brown thread so I used a bold red, because I do have red pieces that I can co-ordinate this cardi with.

I’ve also used two black snaps to close the cardi if I need to. This is my last warm garment that I’ll be making for the next 5 months. The humidity has started in Sydney but I’m thrilled to be in the warmth again.