Grainline Maritime shorts #1

It’s still summer and it’s about time I made these shorts. Everyone else who’s made them, loves them, lives in them until they make their second pair. Then continues to live in these shorts.
It’s true. Google Grainline Maritime shorts and see the great makes. Lizzy is a shorts Wiz including her 3 pairs of Maritime shorts.

A bit of leftover mustard drill from last year’s mustard skinny jeans and some soft printed gauze gratefully received from the generous Gabrielle of Upsewlate were my first pair of Maritime short. Have you see her Mini Moss skirt? It’s really cool

The fly front zipper method is where most sewers have decided to look elsewhere for their instructions and I used to go to Sandra Betzina’s video tute. The zipper construction is done with the pieces flat. 

This was my first sway back attempt. But I redid the sway back  adjustment.

I changed the construction so I could sew the fly front zipper in with the front pieces laying kinda flat. 

1, Make the front pockets as per Jen’s instructions. 
2, Sew the front centre seam together to the zipper point. 
3, Sew in the fly front zipper.
I followed all of Jen’s construction details. Lizzy changed the construction a bit to get the fit right.

Here’s the second sway back attempt and the centre back excess is marked. 

The back of the first pair were a teeny bit too low at centre back so I did my usual sway back adjustment on the pattern and saved this first version by adding a jeans style back yoke piece.

After wearing them, the centre back piece worked and they were comfy for wear. I have a few RTW cargoes that are now 2 sizes too big and I promised myself to wear clothes that fit. Even casual weekend clothes that fit.

The mustard colour drill does nothing for my skin tone so let’s forget this test pair exists. This pair has now been published on the Monthly Stitch collective for February’s challenge.

A second pair (the real pair) is the next post…

By the way, Seamstress Erin pointed me to a site about ‘Real body’ tracing. While I’m not brave to take part in this initiative, I am happy to adjust patterns to fit my shape in all its iterations and share that knowledge here.

Mustard legs – V1204

At the January Alexandria session, Renata was musing about making a pair of lemon yellow jeans. So while looking along the drill bolts I found mustard yellow drill. Score. This is one of my colours. While I’ve been working away from home, at night I’ve been able to get in a couple of hours sewing. No cooking or cleaning, until I get home.

This is my third version – red and green were recently made. This version has a ‘stay’ at the front and I’ve widened the top of the back leg. I just couldn’t work out the pockets pieces, so I pinned the pocket pieces together and extended them to the zipper seam. It’s a drill cotton so it won’t stretch.
The contrast thread was originally going to be grey but then I wanted a less obvious pocket design, so I over sewed it with mustard coloured thread. The pocket curves are traced off using the base on the iron water jug. There wasn’t anything else I could decide upon while working in a one bed room apartment.
Last Saturday, my sewing buddies pointed out there was an unsightly curve on the centre back seam. So it’s now laying dead flat as I unpicked the centre back seams, raised the base and then resewed the seams and flat edges.
I have kept the grey thread on the belt carriers and coin pockets.
Because the fabric is pure cotton, it crushes, hence the creases. The fabric does breath well when you travel. The jeans do feel a bit loose when I sit.

I’m now working on another jeans pattern – Vogue jeans – in apple green denim. I’m using this mustard pants to get the adjustments right. This is my ‘oh my got it’s humid’ weekend look 🙂