Not using calico

While drafting my first trouser pattern for ‘Make a Garment a Month’ I thought I should also test a close fitting paper pattern using McCalls 5397 for summer. While this pattern was printed in 2007, I can’t find the pics online so here’s my version. This pattern is one of my November Minerva Blogger Network projects.

These trousers have a fitted, darted waist with facing and the zip is in the back. So there’s no fly finish needed.

Calico does nothing for my motivation so I used cotton batik I bought in Arab St, Singapore last year. I made the 12 using their hip size calculations and they were big and baggy. So I’ve trimmed it back and raised the crotch so I now have summer weekend trousers. This pattern is ready to use now for my Minerva project.


Self drafted front view
Self drafted back view

This two unflattering pics above are the front and back view of the pair I drafted using flat pattern method from Winifred Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s wear. There’s some fullness across the front at the tummy and the front rise was too high so that’s been adjusted. The back and leg fit work well. I’ve added a waistband and the zip is at the back.

So now I have two fitted print trousers to wear with a plain top for summer. The wrap top was made in 2009.

This eyelet fabric kept staring at me so I lined this in green poplin and used the self drafted trouser pattern with an added fly front and waistband. Aldrich was my guide. The top is Advance 8190.

This fabric has no give and it is very light so while these trousers are slim fitting, they still have wiggle room and airflow for summer.

There’s more testing going on behind the scenes that you’ll see soon. Thank you for your words of encouragement with my Minerva Blogger Network commitment.

Advance 8190 – wrap top and meet up

Thank you for your words of encouragement with my triathlon post. I know it wasn’t a sewing post but I thought it was a fun thing to share.

Advance 8190
There are so many steps you can avoid when sewing with knits. No seam finishes, so hemming or just a quick rolled hem on the overlocker.

Anita of Studiofaro had a weekly pattern puzzle of this pattern. At the end of the weekend, she solved the puzzle and posted the instructions to make this top up.

Redpoint Tailor made her wearable version in pink.

I was trying to do a 1950’s pose. Oh well…

My work version is made from a grey light-weight knit and I’ve worn it a wee bit with my self-drafted Veronica skirt by Mercuryhandmade. The wrap band is 20cm wide and its length is twice the fabric width. I think this was a Fabric Store piece. Grey is a my work staple.

Gail of My fabrication has been sewing up a storm with Anita’s help too. I’ve never met Anita  but will be on Sunday 27 October, 2.00pm at the Powerhouse Museum. She put out a call to all sewing bloggers on her facebook page. You don’t need to have a blog to join!