This is a really personal topic.

I do get asked, what size did I use?

Sorry to tell you, I refer to the finished sizing on patterns to know which size I need to use for my body.

The 2 things I work on are:

1. Know where I need to add extra fabric.

That could be adding a full bust adjustment to a top; a sway back adjustment; forward shoulder adjustment; adding width for the upper arm. I could go on here but it is important to know what adjustments I need to make so the pattern works for me.

2. Take new measurements with every project.

Right now my waist is at least 15cm bigger than last year.

As a sewist, that means you can use the same patterns as in previous projects but add that amount of width at the start of the project.

If you know how to grade a pattern, awesome.

I’ve learned that if the pattern provides 3 seams (2 x side seams and 1 centre back seam) around my waist, I have 6 places to add enough width to increase that waist by 15cm.

Are you always guided by the pattern’s suggested sizes?